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Top 7 Most Beautiful Islands in the World

Islands have an irresistible pull, and I visit and write about them often (and even live on one). Our planet has hundreds of thousands of islands; below are a few favourites that I’ve encountered in my travels. 

7. Sardinia, Italy 

Sardinia has it all: dramatic cliffs plunging into turquoise coves, ancient history etched into the land, and a fiercely proud culture reflected in dishes found nowhere else in Italy. However long you stay on your first trip, it won’t be enough: you’ll already be planning your return before you leave. The island’s past, shaped by Phoenicians, Romans, and Spaniards, lend it a depth and diversity that makes every town feel unique. 

Floating off the coast of Sardinia, Italy

Read more about Sardinia here. And if you like Sardinia, you’ll also enjoy Cape Verde and St Lucia.

6. Isabela, Galapagos, Ecuador

Choosing just one Galapagos island feels unfair, but Isabela–the largest of the archipelago–captures the raw magic of the isles. Isabela is the only place on Earth where you can dive alongside marine iguanas, penguins, and sea lions at the same time. Thanks to its long-standing protected status, the wildlife here is unafraid and curious. It remains one of the most untouched and otherworldly places I’ve ever visited.

Isabela island Galapagos

Off the coast of Isabela, Galapagos, Ecuador

If you like Isabela, you’ll also enjoy South Georgia and Easter Island.

5. Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands took me by surprise, charming me with their wild and unfiltered natural beauty, largely uninterrupted by humans. Puffins, gannets, and fulmars crowd cliff edges, waterfalls plunge straight into the ocean, and emerald-hued mountains shift constantly with whatever the ocean winds bring. Visit between May and October, when daylight stretches past midnight. Bring your hiking boots, and don’t miss booking a heimablidni (a home-cooked meal at a local’s house) for an authentic window into the Faroese culture and sustainable way of life. 

Faroe Islands Kalsoy hiking

Hiking in the Faroe Islands

Read more about the Faroe Islands here. And if you like the Faroes, you’ll also enjoy Greenland and the Shetlands.

4. North and South Islands, New Zealand

I couldn’t choose just one of New Zealand’s islands–the country is spectacular from end to end. The North Island offers geothermal landscapes, glowworm caves lit like starfields, and rich Māori culture. The South Island brings soaring peaks, glaciers, and some of the best hikes in the world. Fresh salmon, lamb, and wine top off the experience. On many trails, you are unlikely to encounter more than a handful of other people, an increasing rarity in today’s world. Needless to say, I dream of returning. 

South Island, New Zealand

Read more about New Zealand here and here. And if you like New Zealand, you’ll also enjoy the Faroe Islands and Niue

3. South Georgia

South Georgia is one of the wildest places on the planet. Apart from a few seasonal researchers, the island is uninhabited by humans and dominated by wildlife. South Georgia is home to the world’s largest king penguin colony (as well as chinstrap, macaroni, and gentoo penguins) along with massive populations of elephant seals, fur seals, and albatross. The island’s history is equally dramatic: this is where Ernest Shackleton landed after his crew’s legendary survival journey across the Weddell Sea off Antarctica. Stepping onto the island feels like stepping into a nature documentary–sure to hear David Attenborough’s voice at any moment.

South Georgia penguins lenticular clouds

A couple of king penguins taking a stroll on South Georgia

Read more about South Georgia here. And if you like South Georgia, you’ll also enjoy the Falklands and Greenland.


2. Aldabra, Seychelles 

Aldabra is so pristine that only a handful of researchers live here year-round. It’s one of the few places on Earth where giant tortoises roam freely in astonishing numbers. Coconut crabs scuttle across the forest floor, and the lagoon hosts a thriving underwater world almost untouched by humans. Endless white-sand flats stretch into shallow turquoise water as far as you can see. If there’s a heaven on Earth, Aldabra is close.

Seychelles Aldabra island

Endless hues of blue off Aldabra, Seychelles

Like South Georgia, Aldabra is uninhabited by humans with the exception of a few researchers from the Seychelles Island Foundation, formed to protect the local habitat. It is one of the only places in the world where you will encounter the giant tortoise, wandering alongside colourful coconut crabs and an underwater world teaming with life, largely unbothered by human interference. Impossibly long stretches of white sand disappear into aqua-hued shallow waters stretching into the horizon. If there is a heaven on Earth, this is it.  

If you like Aldabra, you’ll also enjoy Millenium Atoll (Kiribati) and Socotra (Yemen).


1. Ikaria, Greece

Named after Icarus, who flew too close to the sun, Ikaria is rugged, mystical, and fiercely independent. I first came to study Greek at the island’s cultural center, then returned again and again to explore its mountain trails, thermal springs, secluded beaches, and villages where time seems to run slower. Its famous honey, wine, and olive oil are some of the best in Greece. At just 99 square miles (255 km²), Ikaria feels both intimate and endlessly explorable.

Ikaria, named after Icarus, who flew too close to the sun, is wild, rugged, fiercely self-sufficient, and breathtakingly beautiful. I’ve travelled there more times than I can count, first to study Greek at the Ikarian Cultural Center, and later to explore more of the island’s diverse topography - stunning mountain hikes, hot sulfur pools, and sandy beaches - all backed by rich local products, from olive oil to honey to wine. Ikaria is just 99 square miles (roughly 255km), and yet each time I visit, I discover even more to explore. 

Greece Ikaria island beach

If you like Ikaria, you’ll also enjoy Sardinia and Miyakojima.

For more inspiration, check out my previous post on the Top 7 Beaches in the World.

Road trip: sands, stalagmites and snow in New Mexico

New Mexico is the stuff that road trip dreams are made of. Long stretches of lunar-like landscapes with distant peaks that always feel slightly out of reach, the kind of warm heat that you want to sink into and stay in a while. It’s a place for the adventurous, yes, but also the laid-back. Perfect for a solitary long weekend or a weeklong trip with a friend or partner. 

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park visitor center

White Sands National Park visitor center

I started my trip in Albuquerque, which in pre-covid, fairytale times was serviced by daily nonstop flights on Jetblue from JFK. While the state has started opening up, not all parks are yet open, so be sure to check status before heading out. I drove south from Albuquerque, towards White Sands National Park, passing by the interestingly named town of Truth or Consequences, which is also home to a number of natural hot springs, followed by a classic breakfast of eggs, bacon, and French toast at Sugies Diner in Las Cruces. I arrived at White Sands National Park in the early afternoon and explored as the sky slowly turned from bright blue to deeper purple and pink as the evening crept in and the sun slowly began to set. It’s a place you’ll want to linger, yes, and plan your return.

A selfie moment at White Sands

A selfie moment at White Sands

The sands get their white colour from gypsum crystals - the largest such dunefield on earth. Formed 7,000-10,000 years ago from selenite crystals that over time eroded into gypsum, White Sands National Park is today occasionally subject to closure, as it’s completely surrounded by the White Sands Missile Range. It’s certainly one of the most alien landscapes I’ve ever seen, and it’s easy to park your car at one of many stopping points in the park and quickly get lost in the dunes (be sure to bring plenty of water and know how to make your way back to your car). The deep blue outline of the San Andres range contrasts with the stark white wind patterns etched into the dunes, broken every so often by the thin lines of a determined desert plant. I experienced several dune stages: an initial liberating exploration marked by the sheer pleasure of running fresh tracks and rolling in the sand to feel its warmth; a secondary, more productive phase that entailed resurrecting childhood gymnastics moves; finally, a contemplative phase during which I sat in place, jotting down stray thoughts and having deeper conversations with friends and family in faraway places over the phone. 

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park

I would happily have lingered longer, but I’d booked a motel just outside Carlsbad for the night, and a longer drive through the Lincoln National Forest (during which it snowed!) still awaited me. I’d recommend staying in the area if you’ve got more time, but I really enjoyed arriving to Carlsbad Caverns National Park the next morning just before opening, which allowed me to be the first person to enter that day. Combined with a New York City walking speed, this meant I had a good 15-20 minutes alone in the depths of the caverns before any other visitors caught up to interrupt the slow dripping sounds echoing within the cave system. Much of the system is inaccessible to visitors, and the open part unfortunately has ropes and clearly-marked walking paths, which take away from what otherwise might feel closer to nature. It’s still very much worth a visit, especially if you can get there before the crowds. 

Stalagmites and stalactites at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Stalagmites and stalactites at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Driving north towards Santa Fe, I passed by Roswell, whose claim to fame is the “UFO” crash in 1947 (the UFO in question was actually a U.S. Air Force weather balloon), and which now houses a UFO museum and research center. As I approached Vaughn, the landscape became increasingly desolate, with an occasional shuttered gas station or motel that appeared to date back to the 1950s. It’s the kind of place where time has stopped, and most people simply pass through, but as I think back on my trip, those memories of the afternoon desert sun shining on a place fallen out of favour linger. 

Musicians in downtown Santa Fe

Musicians in downtown Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate House, Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate House, Santa Fe

I reached Santa Fe in the early evening, checking in to the Drury Plaza Hotel, for which I’d found an amazing rate online. It was a bit too chilly to use the rooftop pool, but I happily settled by the roaring fireplace in the lounge with a complimentary gin & tonic and light bites from the hotel’s free daily happy hour. Afterwards, I strolled through town, stumbling upon some live music, and picking up snacks and wine at La Casa Sena wine shop. I also enjoyed sampling some of Gruet’s delicious sparkling wines at their Santa Fe tasting room, and for dessert, Kakawa Chocolate house is unbeatable. Their hot chocolate elixir is some of the best I’ve ever had, and it’s impossible to leave without sampling some of their handmade chocolates. 

The following day, I set out early for the 2 hour drive to Taos for a day of skiing. The conditions at the mountain can be hit or miss depending on the snowfall, but the terrain is still exciting. After a few runs, I grew tired of the quaint, slow lift chairs that are in need of an upgrade - time truly does feel like it runs more slowly. 

Skiing at Taos

Skiing at Taos

Skiing at Taos

Skiing at Taos

En route back to Santa Fe, I passed through a number of picturesque towns, including Arroyo Seco, which features a few small gift shops. Should you have more time, further west lies Carson National Forest, home to more stunning landscapes, including the area around Abiquiu, from where Georgia O’Keeffe drew inspiration. As mine was a shorter trip, I had to settle for checking out some of her art at the small but excellently curated Georgia O’Keeffe museum in downtown Santa Fe. The more I travel, the more I like to give myself a reason to go back to a place I really enjoyed to which I might not otherwise pay another visit. So, New Mexico, I’ll be back!

Where to eat & drink

Sugies Diner, Las Cruces

Gruet’s tasting room, Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate house, Santa Fe

La Casa Sena, Santa Fe

Where to stay

Drury Plaza Hotel, Santa Fe

Paintings at the Georgia O’Keeffe museum in Santa Fe

Paintings at the Georgia O’Keeffe museum in Santa Fe

New Zealand: the North of the North

If you’ve read my previous post about New Zealand, you’ll know I fell for the country pretty hard when I visited the North and South islands in a whirlwind two weeks. I went back last month for more, this time spending two weeks in the northern parts of the North Island, which seemed fitting for summertime. It is truly one of my favourite countries in the world: nowhere else is there such a perfect combination of diversity of landscape, little crowding, and amazing local food.

I’ve broken the below into three regional sections; feel free to skip ahead to Auckland & Waiheke, Northland or Waikato & Bay of Plenty.

Sunrise at Cathedral Cove

Sunrise at Cathedral Cove

Auckland & Waiheke

After landing in Auckland, I checked into my cozy Airbnb near the waterfront and strolled over to Shucker Brothers for a feast of local oysters and fish & chips. The following morning, after some light bites at the Auckland Fish Market, I took Fullers ferry over to Waiheke island, known for its vineyards and fresh seafood, for a day trip. Just 30 min each way, the ferry makes the island incredibly accessible, and it’s advisable to rent a car to visit the different vineyards. I stopped for a quick breakfast at Solar Eating House with nice views overlooking Oneroa Bay before continuing eastward towards Man O’ War vineyards, as the paved road turned to gravel and the scenery becoming increasingly wider expanses of green dotted with sheep. There’s a calm bay with a thin stretch of pebbly beach here, which in the summertime fills with boats, swimmers, and kayakers. The wines at Man O’ War are some of the best on the island, with crisp, minerally whites and peppery Syrahs. 

The beach by Man O’War vineyards, Waiheke Island

The beach by Man O’War vineyards, Waiheke Island

Vineyards on Waiheke Island

Vineyards on Waiheke Island

More food may be in order prior to trying more wines, and fortunately Poderi Crisci, run by a Neapolitan named Antonio, is not far away. A picturesque garden setting filled with the smell of jasmine and lavender welcomes you to your table, and traditional Italian staples are on offer. Alternatively, head back towards Onetangi Bay for a delicious seafood spread at Three Seven Two, which has a fantastic indoor/outdoor layout and overlooks the wide stretch of beach. The oysters were some of the best I had in New Zealand, and the wine list is superb. 

Bird’s eye view of Waiheke Island

Bird’s eye view of Waiheke Island

For something a bit different, check out Casita Miro, which feels like stepping into Parc Guell in Barcelona. The wines are decent, but the views make it worth a stop. For better wines, head to Tantalus and the neighbouring Stonyridge, which I followed with a quick stop at the Te Matuku Bay seafood market for another dozen local oysters. Cap off the day at Cable Bay Vineyards, with views of Auckland in the distance. For dinner, back in Auckland, I thoroughly enjoyed the lamb chop at Giraffe together with a friend who flew in to join me for the remainder of the trip.

Northland

Feeling full of oysters and lamb and wine, a rare and happy feeling, the following day we made our way north towards Matapouri, the jumping off point for the Poor Knights Islands, one of New Zealand’s best dive sites. En route, we stopped at the Kaiwaka Cheese shop to sample some local cheeses and other products: the manuka smoked cheddar and jalapeno gouda were particularly tasty. Further north, a quick hike led to the scenic Whangarei Falls, and nearby was the highlight of the day: Abbey Caves. A set of 3 caves reachable from the road via a short walk, these are particularly special because they aren’t commercialised and are filled with glowworms! To the uninitiated, glowworms are not actually worms, but rather larvae of fungus gnats (a much less glamourous term) that produce a bioluminescent blue-green glow. Some of the entrances to the caves are a bit tight, and the caves can be quite wet, so wear appropriate clothing and footwear (ideally water shoes or hiking shoes that can get wet, as well as a headlamp). Turn off your lights once well inside and enjoy the spectacle!

Our Airbnb near Matapouri was clean and well-located to the dive shop the next morning. We went with Yukon dives, and the boat was one of the nicest dive boats I have ever been on, complete with an upper outside area and a lower, fully-enclosed space full of comfortable bean bags and pillows. Beware, however, the water temperatures, which were at just 17C. These are drysuit diving waters, though the dive shop will assure you that everyone is fine in the 6.5mm wetsuits and hoods they supply. I insisted on layering an additional 3mm wetsuit on top of that, and I was still absolutely freezing within about 60 seconds of entering the water. The water was relatively choppy, though underneath the surface, the sway of the large-leafed, bright yellow and green algae was mesmerising. Large schools of fish and stingrays abounded, and multiple swimthroughs surrounded by the yellow algae truly made this a memorable divesite. In the shallows, caverns along the islands make for spectacular backlit window vistas onto the depths. 

Resident emus at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

Resident emus at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

Homemade Christmas dessert at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

Homemade Christmas dessert at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

One of the most memorable Airbnbs of the trip was Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay in Waiharara, where I was lucky enough to be over Christmas. Their dog Jess came out to greet me, nearly jumping into my car. They joked that since they didn’t have much family in the area, they had rented Americans to entertain them over the holidays. But they have many animals to make up for it: emus, cows, pigs, and ducks roam about, and the property borders a scenic creek upon which you can canoe. They cooked a fantastic Christmas dinner that we were invited to share in, and their breakfasts were the best of the trip. Raewyn & Rosco’s hospitality made me feel right at home despite being thousands of miles away from my own family. 

The next day, we took an incredibly scenic road trip up to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand. It is where the Tasman and Pacific seas meet in a thunderous mix of greens, blues, and greys, and it’s a place of special significance to the Maori, New Zealand’s indigenous people: it is the point where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld. A stunning hiking path leads from near the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula to the completely wild Te Werahi beach. Dress in layers and wear sunscreen; conditions can change quickly. 

Cape Reinga with a view to Te Werahi beach

Cape Reinga with a view to Te Werahi beach

Tasman Sea, Cape Reinga

Tasman Sea, Cape Reinga

Cape Reinga

Cape Reinga

A short drive away are the equally stunning Te Paki giant sand dunes. You’d not be remiss to think you could be somewhere in the middle east, and yet all of these incredibly varied landscapes are in just one part of one small country. Bring a board to coast down the dunes, or simply enjoy getting lost in the alien landscape. 

Te Paki sand dunes

Te Paki sand dunes

Fun in the dunes

Fun in the dunes

Should you be craving a swim after the dryness of the dunes, head to nearby white sand Rarawa beach. If you’ve got a 4x4, you can actually drive onto the beach if you’d like. Kitesurfing is possible here as well if the conditions are right. We also checked out the much windier 90 mile beach (it truly does stretch as far as the eye can see in either direction) on the windward side of the peninsula, where tides can change quickly and more than a few cars have gotten stuck. 

Rarawa beach

Rarawa beach

Kauri tree, Puketi Forest

Kauri tree, Puketi Forest

Our next stop was another farmstay Airbnb further south in Ruawai. En route, we stopped at the Mangonui fish shop for some fish & chips, followed by the Puketi Forest for a short loop hike through a large grove of the currently endangered kauri trees, a species endemic to New Zealand. These large behemoths are reminiscent of California redwoods, but are currently being killed off by an incurable pathogen that can be spread in a single pinhead of soil (typically due to human activity). Signs and spray canisters at the start of trails instruct you to wash and disinfect the soles of your shoes to help prevent spreading the disease. 

The road from Puketi to Ruawai was one of the curviest and emptiest of the trip, and a true pleasure to drive along. Upon reaching Pete & Sara’s farmstay, we were met by Pete, who promptly took us on a short hike to Tokatoka peak to enjoy the vista over the surrounding plains together with his dalmatian, Bella. A former dairy farmer, Pete’s boundless energy and enthusiasm for hosting visitors from around the world was infectious. He introduced us to the alpacas, sheep and donkeys on his farm and showed us how to feed them, and after a home-cooked dinner, we wheeled out his large telescopic to look at the clear night sky largely free of noise pollution. I woke up at 6am to join him at a neighbouring dairy farm where I learned about the process and even milked a couple of cows. Northland is truly New Zealand at its best. 

Waikato & Bay of Plenty

From the rolling hills of Northland, we headed east to the Coromandel peninsula, known among Kiwis for its spectacular beaches and stunning cliffside walks. The drive there along the Firth of Thames is a stunning one and worth the slight detour from the main highway road. Stripes of aqua, turquoise and deep blue merge into each other, and a stroll through Waitawa Regional Park can be a great place to stretch your legs. 

New Chums beach, reachable via a short hike

New Chums beach, reachable via a short hike

Coromandel itself is a cute seaside town and a nice spot for a stroll. I picked up some local cheeses and snacks at The Coromandel Smoking Co, and Umu Cafe serves up tasty breakfasts. We unfortunately didn’t have enough time to head up to Fletcher Bay and the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, but it is supposed to be a spectacular day hike. We did do a short walk along the coastline to reach New Chums Beach, which was perhaps one of the prettiest beaches of the trip (it is frequently voted one of New Zealand’s most beautiful beaches). From there, we stopped off for a daily dose of oysters at Salt Restaurant in Whitianga and enjoyed lazing on Hahei beach as afternoon turned to twilight and the sun disappeared behind us. 

Bench with a view near Cathedral Cove

Bench with a view near Cathedral Cove

Cathedral Cove

Cathedral Cove

Tree groves at Cathedral Cove

Tree groves at Cathedral Cove

The following morning, I woke up before sunrise to walk to Cathedral Cove before the crowds. It was well worth it, as there were just a few others there, and the lighting was spectacular for photography. Incredibly crowded and hence skippable, however, was Hot Water Beach. There are a number of other spots where you can enjoy the thermal heat without the crowds (more on that later). Breakfast at Flatwhite in Waihi features a great view over the ocean and delicious food, and we were lucky enough to be in town for the weekly farmer’s market, where we purchased some eggs and avocados for the coming days. 

Also well worth a stop is the Leveret Estate winery, which features award-winning and reasonably priced wines as well as very kind and patient salespeople. From there, we checked into our Airbnb in Tauranga (with a hot tub!), where we were welcomed by the very kind Pete and Karen and nice views over the surrounding area. We headed to Waimarino Adventure Park for an evening kayaking trip to McLaren Falls Park, complete with more glowworms. We set out in small groups of kayakers as the last rays of the day illuminated the lake and its numerous black swans and headed upstream to a few channels where glowworms illuminate the surrounding rocks. It was truly a magical evening. 

Kayaking in McLaren Falls park

Kayaking in McLaren Falls park

Sunset at Mt Maunganui beach

Sunset at Mt Maunganui beach

The following morning, I set out early to complete the Tarawera Trail, a 15k one-way hike along Lake Tarawera to Hot Water Beach, which, as the name implies, is a thermally heated beach on the lake where you can dig your own hot water pools or simply swim in heated areas of the lake by the shore. You book a water taxi to take you back from here to where you parked your car. The hike will take you through lakeside bushland and varied tree groves, featuring a number of intermittent climbs. The swim at the end of the hike is a relaxing reward, though be sure to book your water taxi in advance, as it runs only if it’s been booked.  

Tarawera trail

Tarawera trail

Hot Water beach, Lake Tarawera

Hot Water beach, Lake Tarawera

The following morning was New Year’s Eve, and in an effort to show off some dewy skin, we booked a mudbath and sulphur bath at the aptly named Hell’s Gate. A walk through the area takes you through various bubbling pools and beautiful colours from the bacteria that survive in this extreme temperatures before you settle into the mudbath. An attendant will explain the best way to apply the mud, and after 20 minutes, you are whisked off to the sulphur pools (bring an old bathing suit, as you will likely never be able to wash out the smell) to allow your skin to further soften. 

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Afterwards, I hiked through the nearby Waimangu Volcanic Valley, which features numerous spectacularly coloured pools and streams due to the underlying thermal activity in the area. In the evening, we enjoyed the small fireworks show over Lake Taupo and lingered on the beach, parts of which are also thermally heated. It was a fitting end to a spectacular decade.

Kayaking on Lake Taupo

Kayaking on Lake Taupo

Mine Bay Maori rock carvings, Lake Taupo

Mine Bay Maori rock carvings, Lake Taupo

I started off the New Year the following morning with a 5k kayak (each way) from Acacia Bay (hire your own kayak or join a tour) to the Maori rock carvings at Mine Bay. Kayaking will take about 75 minutes each way, so it’s not a bad idea to bring along a friend to make it a bit easier on the arms. The rock carvings are quite large and intricate, and the views of snow-capped Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe in the distance over Lake Taupo make the trip even more spectacular. 

Red Crater, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Red Crater, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Emerald Lakes, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Emerald Lakes, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Of course, one of the most popular activities in the area is the 20k Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike. Last time I visited New Zealand, strong winds prevented me from doing the hike, but this time the weather was on my side. I booked a one-way shuttle from the Ketetahi car park to the start of the trail with Tongariro Expeditions and found myself starting the hike just after 6am as the golden orb of the sun rose into a hazy morning. The landscape varies from light brush and volcanic rock to something best described as lunar to thick forest, and temperatures vary accordingly; I was grateful for my gloves and windproof jacket at the start of the hike, but I’d shed most of my layers about halfway through. The climax, with the aptly named and spectacularly hued Red Crater coming into view, occurs about halfway through the hike. Soon after, the three bright Emerald lakes steal the show, followed by a steep scramble that leads into the seemingly never-ending descent. 

Mountain biking is also on offer in the area, and we checked out some of the trails that form the Craters of the Moon geothermal area as well as past Huka Falls and up the Waikato River. You can rent bikes from FourB, and take a dip in the Warm Water Lake area of Lake Taupo for a soothing reward afterwards. I very much enjoyed the seafood at the Edgewater Restaurant with views overlooking the sunset on the lake in the evening, and the lamb and scallop risotto at Vine Eatery were one of my favourite meals of the trip. 

Sunset, Lake Taupo

Sunset, Lake Taupo

Abseiling into the Lost World cave, Waitomo

Abseiling into the Lost World cave, Waitomo

On our last day in New Zealand, we did the Lost World tour with Waitomo Adventures, during which you abseil about 100 metres down into a wet cave system and something that truly does look like a long-forgotten world. I was happy to have selected the 4-hour rather than the full day tour: half a day gives a nice highlight of the experience and does not require wearing a wetsuit and getting completely wet. There are glowworms here, too, and the cave features beautiful vistas looking back through the natural window at the entrance. Keep in mind that what goes down into a cave must come up, and there’s a ladder with over 100 rungs that you’ll have to climb at the end to get out. 

Afterwards, we enjoyed cups of locally grown tea and some light snacks at the Zealong Tea Estate en route back to Auckland, where we feasted on cloudy bay clams in a coriander sauce along with fresh oysters at Depot, and lingered over creative cocktail creations at John & May’s. We had a great night’s sleep at our Airbnb in Auckland, which featured amazing views of the city, a hot tub, and yes, a trampoline. The following day, the sky had turned an unearthly yellow hue due to the Australian wildfires. It was a stark reminder that despite being endowed with all the beauty in the world, New Zealand is still affected by human (in)action, and what we do directly affects the world around us.

Auckland Airbnb with a view

Auckland Airbnb with a view

Where to eat & drink

Shucker Brothers, Auckland

Auckland Fish Market, Auckland

Giraffe, Auckland

Depot, Auckland

John & May’s, Auckland

Solar Eating House, Waiheke Island

Man O’ War vineyards, Waiheke Island

Poderi Crisci, Waiheke Island

Three Seven Two, Waiheke Island

Casita Miro, Waiheke Island

Tantalus, Waiheke Island

Stonyridge, Waiheke Island

Cable Bay Vineyards, Waiheke Island

Kaiwaka Cheese shop, Kaiwaka, Northland

Mangonui Fish Shop, Mangonui, Northland

The Coromandel Smoking Co, Coromandel, Waikato

Umu Cafe, Coromandel, Waikato

Salt Restaurant, Whitianga, Waikato

Zealong Tea Estate, near Hamilton, Waikato

Edgewater Restaurant, Taupo, Waikato

Vine Eatery, Taupo, Waikato

Flatwhite, Waihi, Bay of Plenty

Leveret Estate winery, Katikati, Bay of Plenty

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

Map of the approximate route driven (roughly 2,800km in total)

The Azores: lush, dramatic and unspoilt

With Delta offering nonstop flights (May-September only) from JFK to Ponta Delgada, now is the time to travel to the Azores, a set of nine volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic, some 1,000 miles west of mainland Portugal. Featuring a temperate climate, the isles are rarely particularly hot or cold, and they receive a fair amount of rain, typically in shorter, passing bursts, mostly in the mountainous interiors. Each island was formed at a different point in history, leading to dramatically different landscapes. Pico, the youngest island, is nearly all black, with bright green spots of grapevines pushing through the volcanic soil. São Miguel, the largest island, was formed over the course of millions of years, and features impossibly blue and green crater lakes and lush greenery. 

The view from Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

The view from Miradouro da Grota do Inferno

We spent three days on São Miguel (four is probably the right amount of time), renting a car (a must to get to see the island) and frequently stopping en route. One of the highlights of any visits is the short walk up to Miradouro da Grota do Inferno, which offers a fantastic vantage point over the village of Sete Cidades and the surrounding blue and green crater lakes. Local legend has it that a princess fell in love with a shepherd boy, and the King forbade their marriage. They met one last time to embrace and cry, and as the princess’s eyes were green and the boy’s eyes were blue, the two lakes formed in those colours.

Mosteiros beach

Mosteiros beach

Sizzling limpets (lapas) at Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros

Sizzling limpets (lapas) at Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros

From there, we checked out the natural thermal pools by the ocean’s edge at Ponta da Ferraria. Wear close-toed shoes to hike across the sharp lava fields to the small natural pools that combine the cool ocean with the natural heat from the sulfurous hot springs. Afterwards, enjoy a lunch or dinner of the day’s catch of fresh fish and sizzling limpets (“lapas”) covered in garlic butter and lemon at Restaurante Gazcidla in nearby Mosteiros. The black sand beach here makes the ocean more accessible for a quick swim in the summertime. 

The northern coast has some of the nicest beaches in São Miguel. Perhaps my favourite is the surfer haven of Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara, where you will find a surf center and various options for rentals and lessons, as well as the oceanside Tuká Tulá bar and restaurant (reservations recommended for dinner), featuring some of the best limpets of the trip as well as cocktails with local gin and rum. The beach itself is a long stretch of black sand with multiple layers of breaking waves, perfect for swimming, surfing or bodyboarding. Afterwards, enjoy a steak dinner (the local meat is known for its rich flavour) at the Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, or stop for fresh fish and shellfish at Alabote Restaurante in coastally scenic Ribeira Grande. Nearby, you can also sample some of the local liqueurs (passionfruit is a particular favourite) at Ezequiel Moreira Silva & Filhos or Mulher de Capote in Ribeira Grande.

Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara

Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara

Municipal pool at Ribeira Grande

Municipal pool at Ribeira Grande

Cozido das furnas

Cozido das furnas

Perhaps the most interesting place to visit on São Miguel is Furnas, an area of high thermal activity, with several natural hot spring pools as well as sulfurous, steamy fissures. One of the typical dishes of the Azores, cozido das furnas, is made here. The dish is a meat and vegetable stew that is placed a few feet underground and cooked by the natural heat in the area. One of the best places to try it (and to stay the night) is the Terra Nostra Garden hotel, which offers it a la carte or as part of a 3-course menu at its beautiful restaurant overlooking the hotel gardens. By dining at the restaurant, you’ll also receive passes for free entrance to the hotel’s park and hot springs (normally a cost of 8 EUR/person), which are a great place to spend the afternoon. 

One of the Terra Nostra thermal pools

One of the Terra Nostra thermal pools

Afterwards, don’t miss the view from Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, a vantage point with a view of the Furnas lake and the place where the restaurants dig in their cozido pots (to go there directly, arrive by 12pm, and be prepared to pay a few euros a person to gain access to the grounds). 

Salto do Cabrito

Salto do Cabrito

Hiking on São Miguel

Hiking on São Miguel

To cool off, we went for a swim at the Salto do Cabrito, an impossibly scenic waterfall that has carved its path through the surrounding rock. Don’t be afraid to drive all the way down the road, which can be a bit steep, to shorten your path to the falls, and bring water shoes, as getting into the falls is rocky and slippery. Not swimmable, but also beautiful, are the waterfalls at the Parque Natural dos Caldeirões, from where you can do numerous hikes as well as abseiling and canyoning. Follow it with a free introduction and sampling of the tea at the Porto Formoso tea factory along the north coast, and stop off at the Miradouro de Santa Iria for sweeping views of the northern coastline.

Miradouro de Santa Iria

Miradouro de Santa Iria

Pineapples growing on the Arruda plantation

Pineapples growing on the Arruda plantation

Ponta Delgada

Ponta Delgada

Mercado da Graça, Ponta Delgada

Mercado da Graça, Ponta Delgada

Ponta Delgada, the Azores’ largest town, has a relatively walkable center, but is otherwise not particularly pedestrian friendly, and it has a severe parking shortage. We dropped by O rei dos queijos to try (and buy) some Azorean cheeses and bolos, the local bread, and checked out the fruits and vegetables for sale at the Mercado da Graça next door. On the outskirts of town, Ananases A Arruda is a pineapple plantation (an important local product) where you can view the different stages of pineapple farming and sample them in various formats at the onsite cafe. 

We also visited two other islands, Faial and Pico. The best way to reach either is to fly via Azores Airlines (50 minutes), taking the ferry to get between Faial and Pico (30 minutes). Faial’s highlight is probably the Praia Do Almoxarife, from which on a clear morning you can clearly see Pico mountain, Portugal’s highest peak, on the neighbouring island of the same name. Also worth a visit is the Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo, from which you can do a number of different hikes across the island, as well as the Centro de Interpretação do Vulcão dos Capelinhos, from where you can see the destruction caused by the 1957-58 eruption of the Capelinhos volcano and the stunning surrounding landscape. For lunch, we had a delicious octopus salad and Portuguese sparkling wine at Praya, overlooking the Praia do Almoxarife. For dinner, I highly recommend Restaurante Canto da Doca in Horta, where you receive a hot slab of volcanic stone together with a selection of raw seafoods and meats, and you proceed to cook your own dinner to your liking.

A magical viewpoint on Faial

A magical viewpoint on Faial

Praia do Almoxarife, Faial, with Pico obscured by clouds in the background

Praia do Almoxarife, Faial, with Pico obscured by clouds in the background

Cooking our own seafood and meats on a volcanic stone at Restaurante Canto da Doca, Horta, Faial

Cooking our own seafood and meats on a volcanic stone at Restaurante Canto da Doca, Horta, Faial

But Pico is the real stunner here, dark and dramatic, where more acidic, typically white wine is made from the grapevines growing in the volcanic soil beneath the looming peak of Pico (tastings are available at the Cooperativa in Madalena). The mountain is hikeable, though ideally requires starting in the middle of the night in order to reach the summit by sunrise. Numerous agencies and guides on the island offer the trip, and you get a t-shirt to commemorate the accomplishment. Also well worth a visit is the Gruta das Torres (reservations recommended), where over the course of an hour, a guide took us through a few hundred metres of Europe’s longest lava tube, a fascinating experience. Afterwards, we enjoyed lunch with a view at the modern Cella Bar just north of Madalena. Don’t miss the octopus salad, and the pork ribs were delicious. It can get windy, so bring a jacket. It was so good, we found ourselves back for dinner, during which we discussed returning again next year. Go before the Azores get more of the attention they deserve.

Volcanic vineyards on Pico

Volcanic vineyards on Pico

Exiting the Gruta das Torres lava tube on Pico

Exiting the Gruta das Torres lava tube on Pico

A selection of local cheeses al fresco at Cella Bar on Pico

A selection of local cheeses al fresco at Cella Bar on Pico

Packing list:

  • Rain jacket

  • Mosquito repellent

  • Bathing suit (bring an old one that you don’t mind getting discoloured from the sulfur in the hot springs)

  • Hiking shoes

  • Water shoes

Where to stay:

Praia de Santos Exclusive Guesthouse, Ponta Delgada, São Miguel

Hotel Verde Mar & Spa, Riberia Grande, São Miguel

Terra Nostra Garden hotel, Furnas, São Miguel

Hotel do Canal, Horta, Faial

Pocinho Bay, Pico

Where to eat:

Tuká Tulá bar and restaurant, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Restaurante da Associação Agrícola de São Miguel, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Alabote, Ribeira Grande, São Miguel

Restaurante Gazcidla, Mosteiros, São Miguel

Terra Nostra Garden hotel, Furnas, São Miguel

Praya, Faial

Restaurante Canto da Doca, Faial

Cella Bar, Pico