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Seychelles

The allure of islands

“We live—as we dream—alone…” - Joseph Conrad

These words of Conrad’s resonated with me when I first read them in Heart of Darkness years ago. In many ways, we live independently, never truly knowing the depths of others. For years, I’ve been drawn to remote islands when I travel, and since travel isn’t quite possible right now, I’ve taken some time to reflect on why. Islands are solitary, independent, stoic—they don’t care whether you tend to them or not; they can fend for themselves. They’re the perfect escape, and yet, they are also inescapable. The next ship or flight out may not be for a few days, and until that time, you’re committed. 

One of my favourite beaches on Ikaria

One of my favourite beaches on Ikaria

One of my first trips to an island was to Ikaria, which, according to Greek mythology, is formed from the remains of Icarus, who flew too close to the sun. Ikaria is a spectacular mix of dramatic, steep mountains inhabitable only by goats and stunning beach coves where the cliffs meet the sea. Though the island briefly gained some popularity following a New York Times article describing the island’s inhabitants’ longevity (many currently live well into their 90s or later), spurring a wave of dining on Mediterranean staples, it remains a calm and simple place. In a way, things here are much as they were 50 years ago, and perhaps even further back. There is no room for posturing on an island of this size, as everyone knows each other, and gossip remains a vital form of currency. With roots in Ikaria, Mihalis Kavouriaris has been running a language school high up on the northern side of the island, by the village of Arethousa, for over 20 years. Offering a range of relatively intensive courses in Greek language and culture, the school attracts students both young and old, with one thing in common: a sense of adventure. Reaching Ikaria involves a flight into Athens, followed by a transfer to the port of Piraeus, after which you board a ferry for the six hour ride to Evdilos or Agios Kirykos, the two port towns on Ikaria. You can also fly to Ikaria, bypassing some of the journey, but that feels a bit too easy. It was, after all, Odysseus who showed us that the journey is just as important as the destination. 

A beach on the eastern side of Ikaria

A beach on the eastern side of Ikaria

The port town of Evdilos on Ikaria

The port town of Evdilos on Ikaria

Once at the school, mornings and early afternoons are occupied with classes, but the sun of the midday and late afternoon are all yours. I spent many a scorching afternoon daydreaming at the small outdoor tables overlooking the Aegean (on a clear day, the island of Chios and mainland Turkey come into view), writing down my hopes and dreams for the future. For what I might become. Islands can push you to take a hard look inside yourself and reflect on what you are, and what you want to be, in a way that no other place can. Islands, after all, are focused on survival: what truly matters? What do we need to live? 

The Seychelles

The Seychelles

A few years ago, I was lucky enough to travel to a much more remote set of four islands, the Aldabra Group in the Seychelles. Uninhabited save for a few researchers who receive supplies by ship several times a year, this group of atolls was spared destruction by humans because it has no source of fresh water. It is the only place in the world besides the Galápagos where the giant tortoise roams, and you feel very much a passing visitor to a foreign land. You can reach one of the islands, Assumption, by small plane, but you’ll need a ship to see anything else. We travelled there aboard the National Geographic Orion, setting sail from Dar es Salaam in Tanzania a few days prior. One evening, we came ashore from the ship via Zodiac and witnessed sea turtle hatchlings heading out to sea under the superbly clear southern sky. Never had I seen such a dizzying array of stars, so many that it seemed there was more light than darkness in the sky. With the warm Indian Ocean lapping at our feet, it was comforting to feel that we were the only humans around for miles, in a place inaccessible to others: that is also the magic of an island. 

A giant tortoise on Aldabra island

A giant tortoise on Aldabra island

Much of the enchantment of islands is not immediately visible—you’ll need to go below the surface. Aldabra is a coral atoll, and with the tide, while scuba diving or snorkeling, you can drift into its inner lagoon, the current pushing you along its abundant reefs and wildlife in a crystal-clear reverie. Schools of snapper, aggregations of eagle rays, and solitary sea turtles pass by with the most imperceptible of nods. Just offshore, shivers of black-tipped reef sharks circle in the shallows, and you immediately feel a sense of wonder for these often-feared animals. These sharks have no interest in humans, preferring to explore the warm waters in search of fish and to play-fight among themselves. But they are curious: upon dipping a camera into the water, I quickly found a young shark investigating this novel intruder, nudging with its snout to test its boundaries. 

The Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands

Some islands have developed rich cultures that over centuries have thrived on their seclusion. The Faroe Islands, accessible by plane from Copenhagen, are a place I’ve often dreamed of during this quarantine. Due to the islands’ remoteness, the local people have developed a way of life drawing on their creativity and resourcefulness: food is often fermented to preserve its nutrients for harder times, and no piece of any animal is wasted. More remote villages have been connected via an intricate network of tunnels to ensure passage even during rough seas, resulting in a dispersed but also interdependent population. The islands’ beauty feels all the more striking due to their isolation: you recognise what a privilege it is to experience such a place, to hike for miles in the company of nature, without coming across another human being.

The Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands

Manhattan from above

Manhattan from above

And yet, the beauty of islands does not necessarily lie in their remoteness. Some are inhabited so densely that you might easily forget you’re on one. Manhattan is a perfect example: you could live your entire life without leaving, and its connections to the rest of New York City are so heavily trafficked as to feel permanent. Bridges, ferries, subways, buses, bikes are constantly buzzing, and the sense of scarcity here is defined more by the distance between the haves and the have nots. Yet each time I see the Manhattan skyline after some time away, I’m filled with an overwhelming sense of possibility: all humanity is here, and you can find anything you like, at any time of day or night. Authentic Colombian arepas? Just around the corner. Some of the best sushi in the world, flown in daily from Tsukiji fish market in Japan? A few blocks’ walk. A strong community of multi-generational Italians? A short subway ride. In the midst of so much activity, you feel that you are a part of something, that you belong. In the end, perhaps that’s what we live for: this sense of belonging. In many ways, islands group like-minded people, allowing us to share our feelings, plans, and dreams. They are reminders of what we really are.

What place do you dream of?

The most beautiful city in the world

The most beautiful city in the world

Top 7 Beaches in the World

As an avid beach goer, I’m often asked to name some of my favourite beaches around the world. What defines these places is not just physical beauty, but also a deeper connection to the surrounding place and environment. And it doesn’t hurt if it’s remote, either.

7. Balos Bay, Crete, Greece

I first visited this beach back in 2002 on a family vacation. At the time, the only way to reach it (unless you were lucky enough to have a private boat) was by car along a very rocky, difficult to navigate road. When the road ended, you could hike down, the beauty of the giant rock and thin strip of pink sand connecting it to the mainland coming into view. Most striking of all, in the distance the darkened remains of a shipwreck marked the otherwise blue-green water. And best of all—we were alone.

When I went back just three years later, there were tourist boats taking daytrippers to the beach, complete with beach chairs and umbrellas. Still very much worth visiting, but you’ll have to time your visit right.

Balos Bay, Crete, Greece

Balos Bay, Crete, Greece

6. Aitutaki, Cook Islands

The array of colours and sharp contrasts between the blues and greens was among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen in nature at Aiutatki lagoon. It’s a relatively remote atoll, but worth every penny to get to. I was lucky enough to visit while on board the National Geographic Orion from Rarotonga via Kiribati to French Polynesia. We visited one of the islands in the lagoon, featuring the kinds of palm trees typically seen on postcards. The shallow water surrounding the island made for stunning photographs, and fish and dolphins were plentiful.

Aiututaki, Cook Islands. Photo credit: Jay Dickman

Aiututaki, Cook Islands. Photo credit: Jay Dickman

5. Abel Tasman, New Zealand

Abel Tasman is a rewarding hike through a spectacular stretch of nature in what is already one of the world’s most beautiful countries. You can opt to have Abel Tasman water taxi services drop you off and pick you up elsewhere the same day as you hike through and stop at waterfalls, beaches and suspension bridges en route, or you can also do a similar trip camping with overnight stops. Sea kayaking is also available, and there’s a beach for everyone—truly an adventurer’s paradise. This stretch of coast is a must-visit for anyone planning a trip to New Zealand.

Abel Tasman, New Zealand

Abel Tasman, New Zealand

4. Tulum, Mexico

A long stretch of white sand beach and crashing waves dotted with small boutique hotels (my personal favourite is Sueños) featuring hammocks and bean bags, Tulum is the ultimate relaxation getaway. But should you tire of drinking spicy mezcal cocktails and stuffing yourself with tacos or tortilla soups on the beach, there are plenty of activities to keep you occupied. Several kitesurfing schools line the beach, and stand up paddleboarding is also available. A short drive away are cenotes, or underground freshwater caverns with openings through which sunlight and snorkelers stream in. Scuba diving is also available (and highly recommended). One such dive, studded with the effects of halocline and stalactites, convinced me to start my cave diving certification with Bil Phillips of Speleotech, a highly experienced cave explorer and instructor.

Tulum, Mexico

Tulum, Mexico

3. Praia do Leão, Fernando de Noronha, Brazil

This beach is often overlooked in favour of the neighbouring Baia do Sancho, which garners all the accolades. Praia do Leão is its wilder cousin, reachable either by walking from the nearby Praia do Sueste (also worth a visit to spot baby lemon sharks in the shallows or for a swim and snorkel), or hitching a ride. It’s not suitable for swimming, and there are no concessions, so bring plenty of water. Have a seat on the sand, watch the waves pound away at the surf, and contemplate writing your own version of Baudelaire’s Man and the Sea.

Praia do Leão, Fernando de Noronha, Brasil

Praia do Leão, Fernando de Noronha, Brasil

2. Anakena, Easter Island

Easter Island is a special place, and this beach is no exception. Seven moai statues overlook the pink sand and natural harbor with turquoise water. There are a fair number of people, but the beach is large enough that is doesn’t feel crowded. There are several nice vantage points nearby, and it’s an easy place to while away an afternoon reading, swimming and enjoying the views. And of course to wonder, who was this ancient civilisation who built the moai, how, and why? And other questions that we may never have answers to.

Anakena beach, Easter Island

Anakena beach, Easter Island

1. Aldabra, Seychelles

Aldabra is as remote as it gets, uninhabited save for a small environmental research station, and reachable only by boat. It is the second-largest coral atoll in the world, and the only place besides the Galápagos where the giant tortoise roams—a mystery to this day. The tortoises have plenty of company, with large coconut crabs in various hues of purple, orange and yellow hiding in the trees, and some of the best scuba diving in the world just beyond the lagoon. Small black-tip reef sharks like hanging in the shallows of the white sand beaches and may curiously check you out. You’ll be some of the only humans for miles in this remote part of the Seychelles. Need I continue?

The Seychelles

The Seychelles

A giant tortoise on Aldabra in the Seychelles

A giant tortoise on Aldabra in the Seychelles