Ancient civilisations, sandscapes, and secrets in Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia was not a country I imagined visiting. Until just five years ago, it wasn’t even an option—the country was not open to tourists. Cinemas and concerts were banned, and restaurants enforced gender segregation. Women did not have the right to drive, apply for passports, or hold the same jobs as men. In a few short years, under the reforms of the new Crown Prince, much of that has changed, bringing an influx of foreign investment and curious travelers. So when a business opportunity arose earlier this year, I decided to go with an open mind and experience the country firsthand.

Most visitors arrive in either Riyadh, the capital and largest city, or Jeddah, the second-largest city and Red Sea port. I had applied for an eVisa online a week prior, and immigration was a breeze. I then took a domestic flight to AlUla, a desert oasis on the ancient Nabataean Spice and Incense Route, in the northwest of the country. 

Caravan AlUla

Two hours later, I was driving my Budget rental car across vast sandstone landscapes, snacks from a local supermarket in hand, on my way to Caravan AlUla by Our Habitas. (Note: I strongly recommend downloading an offline map of the area on Google Maps before travelling, as signal strength can come and go.)

After checking into my sleek airstream trailer set in a desert “campground” featuring an open-air tent with breakfast in the mornings, food trucks in the evenings, and an open-air cinema projecting films nightly onto the surrounding cliffs, I drove a few minutes to the main area of the hotel, Our Habitas (caravan guests have full access to the facilities). From there, golf carts take guests to all areas of the grounds, including the stunning infinity pool framed by red-hued mountains. Baking for thousands of years in this unforgiving desert climate, these mountains stand as silent witnesses to the rise and fall of centuries of civilisations, and they will remain long after we are gone. Floating there as the sun began to set, I reflected on just how small we are in the sweep of history. 

The infinity pool at Our Habitas, AlUla

An art installation at Our Habitas, AlUla

The grounds are also dotted with art installations, including a series of trampolines nestled in the sand between a pair of cliffs. My inner child joyfully emerged as I bounced and bounced, higher and higher. At night, under a dome of stars, the place felt almost otherworldly. Daily exercise classes and evening sound baths added to the sense of calm.

A tomb at Hegra, AlUla

A tomb at Hegra

A tomb at Hegra

The next morning, I explored Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site. Hundreds of towering Nabataean tombs carved into the sandstone stand as echoes of the kingdom that once thrived there. Visits are only via guided tours (in both English and Arabic) and must be booked in advance online. Nearby, the archaeological sites of Dadan and Jabal Ikmah feature centuries of ancient inscriptions etched into the rock, while the mirrored facade of the newly built event space Maraya appears as a mirage in the desert landscape. 

Elephant Rock, AlUla at sunset

View of AlUla and surrounds from Harrat viewpoint

For sunset, a popular spot is Elephant Rock, a natural arch with a few food trucks and ample seating. Afterwards, I headed to AlUla’s Old Town, a beautifully restored maze of narrow alleys winding among centuries-old mudbrick dwellings. The main market street cuts straight through the town, lined with cafes, boutiques, and cultural spaces. String lights give the streets a magical glow bridging past and present, and I watched both domestic and foreign visitors stroll past while enjoying a hearty local meal at Grandma Recipe. I marveled that this entire experience has only become possible in the last few years.

Mural in AlUla Old Town

AlUla Old Town

Enjoying a non-local bite in AlUla Old Town

AlUla Old Town at night

In contrast, Riyadh is all about scale and ambition. With a population of eight million (about the same as New York City), the city buzzes with construction cranes, symbols of its rapid modernization. Projects like Boulevard World—which will feature miniatures of global landmarks—and Bujairi Terrace blend Saudi traditions with modern flair. At the stylish Flamingo Room, we lingered over dinner as a sudden sandstorm swept through, savoring tea and desserts until the skies cleared enough to leave. Air quality is a frequent issue in the city. 

Riyadh

Riyadh

My final stop was Jeddah, smaller and more relaxed, with a distinct cuisine and culture. Breakfast at Tofereya introduced me to the city’s flavours, and wandering Al-Balad, its UNESCO-listed old town, felt like stepping back in time. Traditional coral-stone houses with ornate wooden balconies overlooked souks brimming with everything from textiles to trinkets, and local men socialised over shisha and dominoes.

Al-Balad, Jeddah

Al-Balad, Jeddah

On my last evening, we feasted on smoky grilled meats at the popular 7 Ribs. Afterwards, we headed for a sunset stroll to the Jeddah Promenade, which stretches for miles along the Red Sea. Families, couples, and groups of friends gathered along the waterfront, the refreshing breeze carrying conversation and laughter. It was in these daily moments of connection that Saudi Arabia revealed itself most fully: a place of true hospitality, warmth, and astonishing transformation. 

I left with the sense that I’d only skimmed the surface of this vast country (the world’s twelfth-largest) but also with deep gratitude for the openness with which it welcomed me. Saudi Arabia is changing with dizzying speed, and for travelers willing to come with curiosity and respect, it offers a truly unique experience. 

Al-Balad, Jeddah

Where to eat

Tama at Habitas, AlUla

Grandma Recipe, AlUla

Okto at Harrat Viewpoint, AlUla

Flamingo Room, Riyadh

Tofereya, Jeddah

7 Ribs, Jeddah

Where to stay

Caravan by Our Habitas, AlUla

Dar Tantora, AlUla

Novotel Sahafa, Riyadh

Miyakojima: Japan’s remote island paradise

On my latest visit to Japan, after a few indulgent days in Tokyo feasting on omakase sushi, flavourful bowls of ramen, and uni (sea urchin) in every possible form, we hopped on a nearly three-hour flight south to Miyakojima. Miyakojima, or Miyako island, is part of Japan’s southernmost prefecture of Okinawa, comprising 160 islands (of which just 49 are inhabited). Four more islands—Kurima, Irabu, Shimoji, and Ikema—are connected to Miyako via bridges, making exploration of the archipelago refreshingly easy. 

There’s an undeniable allure to remote islands—their unique customs and traditions, the stories of those who call them home, and the resourceful ways in which people weave the island’s natural bounty into the fabric of daily life. Miyakojima is all that, and more. Over four days exploring the island group, we sampled local delicacies ranging from sea grapes to coconut crab, met artisans who embody deep pride and excellence in their craft, and stumbled upon white sand beaches so pristine and empty they felt like secrets. 

One of Miyakojima’s many beautiful beaches

Scuba diving off the north shore of Irabu island, Japan

Underwater, the islands are just as breathtaking. While scuba diving with Penguin Divers, we found ourselves face-to-face with sea turtles drifting gracefully, moray eels peering from crevices, an octopus unfurling in the shadows, and flashes of boxfish, mantis shrimp, and tuna weaving through coral arches. Many sites are also snorkelling-friendly.

One of our favourite meals was lunch at Rainbow Fish, a restaurant literally built from the ground up by the chef. Each dish is cooked to order from an Italian-inspired menu with a Japanese twist. I ordered the homemade spaghetti with mentaiko cream sauce, topped with shredded nori—easily as good as anything I’d eaten in Italy a month prior. It was so good, in fact, that I ordered it again. Afterwards, we chatted with the chef about his journey to the island, and he turned out to be as humble as he is talented.

The vibrant octopus at Tako Park, Kurima island, Japan

Afterwards, we strolled to Tako Park, where a giant red octopus statue offers welcome shade and sea breezes on hot days. From there, we made our way to another animal-shaped structure, the Makiyama Observatory. The massive concrete structure, said to resemble a bird, commands sweeping views of the surrounding area, including the iconic Irabuohashi Bridge, its waves undulating over the surrounding shades of turquoise sea. A short drive away, Toguchinohama beach unfurled in a long crescent of white sand, dotted with just a handful of visitors on a national holiday weekend in August.

Toguchinohama beach, Irabu island, Japan

Even more spectacular was Sunayama beach, a short walk downhill from the car park. Its signature rock arch is now covered with netting for safety, but its true allure lies in the dazzling array of aquas and blues stretching to the horizon. We spent the afternoon wading through crystal clear shallows leading to sand banks and secluded coves. The best part? We had it all to ourselves.  

The entrance to Sunayama beach, Miyakojima, Japan

Sunayama beach, Miyakojima, Japan

That evening, we splurged on dinner at the newly opened Rosewood hotel, where the menu showcases local ingredients in simple preparations. Looking over the ocean as the setting sun colored the landscape in hues of deep indigo, we reflected on how lucky we are to be able to experience such an incredible place. 

Uni-no-hama sandbar, Miyakojima

The following morning, we set out with Jet Cruise to Uni-no-hama, a sandbar that emerges only at low tide just south of the Irabuohashi bridge. Surrounded by endless shallows and only a scattering of visitors, it felt like a fleeting mirage. Afterwards, we cooled off with some of the best mint chocolate chip ice cream I’ve ever had (made with locally grown mint) at Miyakojima Fruit Parlor, picked up sea grapes and salt at Island Station market, and headed to the airport, buzzing with the thrill of discovery. Miyakojima may be far-flung, but that is precisely its charm. Here, nature, tradition, and hospitality come together to create the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave.

Frolicking at Uni-no-hama sandbar, Miyakojima

Where to eat & drink

Rainbow Fish, Kurima island

Rosewood hotel, Miyakojima (multiple restaurants; reservations required)

Miyakojima Fruit Parlor, Miyakojima (ice cream made with local ingredients)

Bar Think, Miyakojima (amazing cocktails served by a very friendly 70-something-year-old bartender)

Island Station, Miyakojima (for groceries and items to bring home)

Goya Izakaya, Miyakojima (for local specialties, including noodles or rice with pork, tofu, and sashimi). It’s on Nishizatoo street, which is lined with many restaurants and late night spots.

Where to stay

Miyakojima Tokyu, Miyakojima (Note: while the setting by Yonaha beach is beautiful, and the included breakfast buffet was varied and filling, the thin walls meant we heard our neighbours’ every move)

Oman: order and beauty

In Charles Baudelaire’s poem L’invitation au voyage (inspired by his travels as a youth), he paints an image of both calmness and oriental splendor.

Là, tout n'est qu'ordre et beauté,

Luxe, calme et volupté.

Swimming through the turquoise waters of Wadi Shab, Oman

I was reminded of his words on a recent trip to Oman, a stunningly beautiful country filled with some of the most charming locals I’ve met on my travels. Upon landing in Muscat in the evening and heading to the rental car booths (highly recommended as an economical and easy way to get around), everyone along the way made me feel welcome, telling me about the city, its origins and its people. I also found it to be a safe country; as a solo female traveller, I was treated everywhere with kindness and respect. After checking into my hotel room, I sat on my balcony, breathing in the fresh sea breeze, enjoying the lingering sensation of saltiness and heat infused with the sweetness of the night.

The following morning, I drove to the MolaMola Diving Center to embark on a day trip to the Dimaniyat Islands, a nature reserve some 40 miles (70 km) northwest of Muscat. The dive boat was full of travellers from around the world, including some locals, and the vibe was one of lighthearted banter and chatter about off the beaten path adventure destinations. The diving was well worth the boat ride out: turtles, cuttlefish, and schools of fish darted around well preserved coral heads with relatively good visibility and a touch of current. Lunch was served on board the boat, and the rocking of the waves lulled us into a deep satiety as we returned to Muscat. I spent much of the rest of the day working, venturing out to the nearby Royal Opera House to admire the architecture and for an evening stroll along the waterfront, where families, couples, and groups of friends created a lively atmosphere.  

Muscat waterfront, Oman

After a light breakfast, I drove south, arriving roughly 90 minutes later at Wadi Shab for a fun adventure combining hiking and swimming. From the parking area, a short boat ride run by locals for 1 rial per person takes you across the river to the start of a scenic hike to a series of natural pools carved over centuries by the moving water. Despite starting early in the morning with few others along the trail, I found I was baking in the heat of the sun by the time I reached the first pool after about 40 minutes. Stripping down to my bathing suit, I put my belongings in a dry bag and began swimming through a series of 3 pools until I reached a narrow crevasse with a shining turquoise pool of water on the other side. A small waterfall gushes in from yet another small pool just above, reachable by a thick rope over wet rock for those seeking more thrills. Lingering, I enjoyed turning all my senses to the sights and sounds of nature, letting any everyday worries flow away with the sound of the water amplified by the rocks around me, carved over centuries. It was a subtle reminder that this river has flowed long before you or me, and will likely continue long after we cease to exist. 

Hiking through Wadi Shab, Oman

Wadi Tiwi, Oman

The wadis in Oman come in all shapes and sizes; based on a recommendation from a new friend on the dive boat, I ventured further south along a winding mountain road to Wadi Tiwi. From the parking area, a series of steps lead downwards to a set of pools in a rainbow of green-blue hues. Swimming was a respite from the ever-present heat, and scrambling around a few rocks yielded a stunning view into a deep canyon where the river widened before disappearing from view around the bend. I encountered just five other people who expressed surprise that I had driven myself in a rental sedan; most visitors arrive with a local guide in a 4x4. Rest assured, you’ll fare just fine in any vehicle, but do check the road conditions in advance.

Bimmah sinkhole, Oman

En route back to Muscat via villages forgotten in time, I stopped at the Bimmah sinkhole, which was full of visitors in the afternoon. Many were swimming in its crystal clear waters, but this may be a bit of a letdown after you’ve experienced the wadis further south. Instead, I recommend continuing onwards to Mutrah, a port town just east of Muscat, and enjoying a traditional Omani meal at Bait Al Luban. Their rendition of shuwa, a classic Omani celebration dish of marinated meat roasted in an underground firepit for hours, was fantastic, as was the shorbat adass, a lentil soup enhanced with local spices. Afterwards, get lost in the myriad of wares at the Mutrah Souq, or stroll along the Mutrah Corniche to admire the views of the fort and whitewashed buildings set against a backdrop of sharp mountainous peaks. 

Mutrah corniche, Oman

Mutrah souq, Oman

Muscat itself features numerous attractions, ranging from local sweets at Al Hosni to exotic fragrances at the Amouage perfume centre. With just a few days, I lacked the time to visit the Musandam Peninsula, renowned for its diving, or the picturesque villages of the Al Hajar mountains. But trying to experience all these places in one visit would be a mistake; Oman is the type of place that invites you to return, time and time again, with the feeling of always wanting more. 

Là, tout n'est qu'ordre et beauté,

Luxe, calme et volupté.

Infinity pool overlooking the Gulf of Oman

St Lucia: crystal waters, cocoa, and craters

Few places have it all, but St Lucia is a serious contender. Staggering deep green mountains for hiking and climbing, rainforest trails filled with coffee and cacao trees, coral reefs teeming with life, and volcanic hot springs paired with a rejuvenating mud bath? Yes, yes, yes, and yes. What’s more, the people are some of the kindest I’ve met anywhere, and delicacies like saltfish and green figs, or freshly caught grilled fish paired with the local hot sauce, will leave you wanting for more.

View of the Pitons flying into St Lucia

Flying into Hewanorra International airport, I was treated to a spectacular view of the green-covered twin peaks of Gros and Petit Piton (large and small, for the non-francophone), and quickly began to settle into island time. We stayed at Sweet Breezes, a simple but spacious rental home a stone’s throw from the more upscale Tet Rouge resort in a less populated area, and at night we marveled for hours at the vast quantity of stars we could see from our roof deck due to little light pollution. A few minutes’ walk took us to a small beach, where at night the waves shone with bioluminescence as they lapped the shoreline. This is a place where time seems to slow, allowing you to reconnect to what’s truly important. 

Sunset, St Lucia

Jalousie beach, St Lucia

The sea here teems with life, and you’ll be treated to schools of bright yellow grunts, squads of hovering squid, and a lone camouflaging octopus or two whether you snorkel or scuba dive. I did a couple of great dives with Chester, who runs Action Adventure Divers out of Soufriere at the base of the Pitons. We sought out invasive lionfish during our dives, which Chester speared and then asked a friend to fry for us next to the dive shop. One of the best snorkeling spots is on the north side of Jalousie beach, which you can reach by boat or by road via the Viceroy’s high-end Sugar Beach resort. We saw moray eels both freeswimming and emerging from hiding spots in the coral, inquisitive Caribbean reef squid traveling in family-size units, and a pair of pillow-sized porcupine fish. All beaches in St Lucia are public, and we enjoyed strolling along the sand, admiring the Pitons towering on either side of us. We followed with local greens, grilled fish, fried chicken, and passionfruit-flavoured drinks at the beachside restaurant, our feet in the sand as the sun set into the sea.

St Lucian sunset

View of Petit Piton whilst hiking Gros Piton

Feeling up for an adventure, the next day we awoke early to hike up Gros Piton. Upon arriving at the trailhead, we were paired with a local guide and asked to pay a $50 USD entry fee, which goes to the local community (note: you cannot go up without a guide and at least 1.5L of water per person, though I’d recommend bringing 2L or more). Reaching the summit requires roughly 2 hours of mostly uphill hiking, with 3 spots spaced roughly 30 minutes apart to stop, rest, and enjoy the views along the way. We were rewarded with a sense of accomplishment and spectacular views of both Petit Piton (a more difficult summit, involving some climbing) and the southern expanses of St Lucia, with the peak of La Soufriere volcano on St Vincent visible in the distance. The way down felt longer, as it often does, but fortunately a small hut selling delicious homemade ice cream and an assortment of cold drinks awaits.

Volcano crater on St Lucia

St Lucia is also one of the few places you can drive into the crater of an active volcano. We were greeted by the strong smell of sulphur and a few friendly local employees, who took us to a lookout point from where we saw an assortment of bubbling hot pools and heard stories about the history and formation of the area. Afterwards, we dipped into the nearby mineral hot springs, slathering ourselves in volcanic mud with revitalising properties that locals and tourists alike swear by. Our skin did feel baby soft for a few hours afterwards, so it’s certainly worth a shot.

Should you be craving a different kind of bath, nearby is the Toraille waterfall, a pretty 50 foot (15 metre) drop into a cold wading pool—stand under it for a nice back massage. Alternatively, nearby is Hotel Chocolat, an eco hotel with a spa featuring exfoliating scrubs and massages with oils made from the cacao beans grown locally on the property. Feeling sufficiently relaxed, we toured the cacao groves, and our patient guide taught us how to make our own chocolate bars from the raw ingredients. Spoiler: it requires patience and a lot of grinding pestle against mortar, and results in some of the best chocolate you’ll ever have. 

Our patient guide at Hotel Chocolat

Anse Mamin beach, St Lucia

Desiring more time in the sea, we headed to the nearby beaches of Anse Chastanet and Anse Mamin. Accessible by boat or car, both feature large expanses of sand lapped by crystal clear waters with dramatic rock-hewn backdrops. The high-end, open air sister resorts of Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet are located here, and we enjoyed the fish ceviche served in a coconut along with delicious burgers on the beach at the relatively quieter Anse Mamin. Whiling away an afternoon alternating between swimming, reading, and sunbathing was enough to forget the outside world, and splurging on a couple of nights at the nearby Caille Blanc villa was definitely the right choice.

A short drive or walk from the beach, Caille Blanc perches dramatically on the hillside, with an infinity pool overlooking perhaps the best view of the Pitons. The view is overshadowed only by the friendly staff, who will ensure your stay is as magical as their island. I spent hours gazing over the expanse of ocean and mountains, and the image of the twin Piton peaks remains etched in my mind like an invitation. It’s a place you’ll want to linger, taken in by its serenity as you reflect on how lucky we are to live in this world.

View of the Pitons from the infinity pool at Caille Blanc, St Lucia

Where to eat, drink, and stay

Jungle grill, Anse Mamin beach

Sweet Breezes rental home, Choiseul, Soufriere

Hotel Chocolat

Caille Blanc Villa

A few notes on logistics

In current times, you’ll need a negative covid PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival to St Lucia. I recommend doing this early, as you’ll need to upload it to the tourism portal, after which you’ll wait to receive an email with a QR code that you’ll need in order to enter the country. If you stay at more than one hotel in the country during your stay, some may require an additional test. To return to the U.S., you’ll need a negative test taken within 24 hours. As I found pricing for this to be quite high on the island, I brought a travel-approved test with me from the U.S., which I took under a doctor’s supervision via video call from my laptop. 

Having a car is essential to getting around the island (unless you’re willing to splurge on repeated outings from your hotel or rental) and gives you the freedom to explore. Many attractions are concentrated along the western side of the island, and the region around Soufriere is great to use as a base. If you’re looking to explore the whole island, keep in mind that driving distances can be significantly longer than they appear on Google Maps due to the frequent curves and potholes you’ll encounter on the roads; driving from the southern part of the island to the north without stopping will likely take about 3-4 hours. I highly recommend the locally-run Sacred Heart car rental - communication was easy, and everything went smoothly.

Northern lights, frozen lakes and gastronomic delights: Swedish Lapland

Few experiences compare to the magic of watching the ever-shifting greens, purples, and pinks of the aurora borealis (or australis in the southern hemisphere) dancing above you in the night sky. While I was lucky enough to witness the aurora in Finland a few years back, I was eager for more. I spent several weeks in northern Sweden during the winter, getting to know remote northern towns and people, incorporating skiing, hiking, and great meals along the way. 

Flying over northern Sweden into Lapland

While the lights are active year round, they are best seen in the early fall or spring in the northern hemisphere (September-November or February-April) on a clear night between 65° and 72° North. Some of the most popular places for viewing include Alaska, Canada, Greenland, the Faroe Islands, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, and Finland. There is of course no guarantee, and sometimes the lights may appear for just a few minutes, while at others you may be lucky enough to see them for hours. Ideally, you’ll want to be outside of any urban areas to avoid light pollution. 

Ice skaters on the frozen lake near Puoltsa, Sweden

I flew to Kiruna in northern Sweden from Stockholm in early November and rented a car at the airport. The flight there was magical in itself, as we passed numerous frozen lakes and rivers snaking their way through the countryside. For the first few nights, I stayed at a cabin rented by a local family in the small village of Puoltsa overlooking a lake on which you can ice skate in winter. There are a few nearby walking trails, and on three nights, I saw the northern lights from right next to the cabin. It was an otherworldly experience to see the sun rise around 9am and set in the early afternoon, with many hours of a golden twilight both before and after. A few hours after it became fully dark, around 10pm, the lights made their appearance, ebbing and waning as they swirled through the sky. 

The aurora and stars viewed from my cabin [shot on iPhone]

Winter views of Kebnekaise, Sweden

Reindeer at Arctic Gourmet Cabin

From Puoltsa, you can drive to the end of the road at Nikkaluokta, from where a number of hiking trails start, including views of Kebnekaise, Sweden’s highest peak. Be sure to buy any supplies you may need before leaving Kiruna, as there are no markets in this area. Another place to stay is the Arctic Gourmet Cabin, run by a small family, featuring an outdoor hot tub and a wood-fired sauna. Over dinner one evening, I got to know a local couple who were treating themselves to a night out, as Johan Löfgren, our host and chef extraordinaire, served us a fantastic set of courses sourced locally. Standouts included reindeer roasted over an outdoor fire paired with mushrooms and a vegetable puree as well as moose with coffee cheese (a Swedish specialty) that would not have been out of place in a high-end restaurant. Afterwards, I stargazed from the hot tub, searching for a glimpse of the aurora.

Another evening, I stopped off for dinner at the nearby Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi, where I sampled Kalix roe (harvested from the freshwater fish vendace, found in local lakes) on rye bread and a poached, buttery-textured arctic char fillet. Many of the guests were staying at the hotel in rooms made entirely of ice (rebuilt every fall), a fun albeit pricey novelty. Just down the road, you can learn about the indigenous Sámi culture and go reindeer sledding at Nutti Sámi Siida.  

Gällivare, a village en route to Jokkmokk

Lake Vajkijaure near Jokkmokk, Sweden

Venturing south from Kiruna, I stayed for a couple of nights just north of Jokkmokk, a sizeable town with a few hotels and restaurants. I woke up each morning to walk along the frozen, snow-covered lake Vajkijaure bathed in various shades of blue, yellow and pink in frigid, face-freezing -15C temperatures. I picked up some Kalix and rainbow trout roes as well as reindeer at the Jokkmokk sausage and smokehouse, which also carries some local handicrafts. 

My cabin at the Arctic Bath Hotel, Sweden

From Jokkmokk, I continued towards my splurge of the trip: a night at the newly opened Arctic Bath hotel. Featuring just five overwater cabins and three larger land cabins, I felt any worried thoughts of meetings and to do lists dissipate as I fell into the calming rhythms of the place. I stayed at one of the water cabins and loved every minute. After checking in, I was gifted a bathing suit and robe and escorted along the pathway over snow-covered ice to my cabin, featuring a wraparound wooden deck. Inside, the cabin had an automatic wood fireplace that chirped soothingly as it dropped in extra pieces of wood until the cabin was heated to the desired temperature. I walked over to the main building for the afternoon’s complimentary introduction to the array of saunas, hot tubs, and arctic plunge pool included in each stay. The session was led by Ana, a transplant from Brasil who had me relaxed in no time as she demonstrated exercises to try in one of the lemongrass-scented wood-fired saunas. Together, we took turns absorbing the heat emanating from the slow crackle of the sauna followed by the intensely contrasting, skin-awakening sensation of jumping into the winter waters of the river on which the hotel lies (a motor keeps the waterhole swirling so that it does not freeze over). After a few rounds of this, I spent some time in the steam sauna, and finished in the outdoor hot tub overlooking the river. Having worked up an appetite, I made my way to the dining room for dinner, where I was treated to a creatively presented and stunningly tasty set of courses. The traditional Swedish dish of reindeer with lingonberries and mashed potatoes was both juicy and crunchy, and I asked for seconds of the in-house smoked butter and rye bread. I slept soundly that night wrapped in incredibly comfortable bedding, and I woke up the next morning ready for more adventure.

One of the saunas at the Arctic Bath Hotel

The arctic plunge at the Arctic Bath Hotel

The ever-present fall twilight in northern Sweden

Where to eat, drink, and stay

Jokkmokk sausage & smokehouse (gourmet market with local products)

Arctic Gourmet Cabin, Kaalasjärvi

Arctic Bath Hotel, Harads

Nearby is the not-to-be-missed Tree Hotel, designed by some of the same architects as the Arctic Bath Hotel, featuring a dozen unique cabins made of different materials. One resembles a bird’s nest; another, shaped as a flying saucer, looks ready for takeoff. While I didn’t get the chance to stay there, I hope to revisit it on a future trip.

UFO cabin at the Tree Hotel

Bird’s nest cabin at the Tree Hotel