Top 7 Most Beautiful Islands in the World

November 17, 2025

Islands have an irresistible pull, and I visit and write about them often (and even live on one). Our planet has hundreds of thousands of islands; below are a few favourites that I’ve encountered in my travels.

7. Sardinia, Italy

Sardinia has it all: dramatic cliffs plunging into turquoise coves, ancient history etched into the land, and a fiercely proud culture reflected in dishes found nowhere else in Italy. However long you stay on your first trip, it won’t be enough: you’ll already be planning your return before you leave. The island’s past, shaped by Phoenicians, Romans, and Spaniards, lend it a depth and diversity that makes every town feel unique.

Floating off the coast of Sardinia, Italy

Read more about Sardinia here. And if you like Sardinia, you’ll also enjoy Cape Verde and St Lucia.

6. Isabela, Galapagos, Ecuador

Choosing just one Galapagos island feels unfair, but Isabela–the largest of the archipelago–captures the raw magic of the isles. Isabela is the only place on Earth where you can dive alongside marine iguanas, penguins, and sea lions at the same time. Thanks to its long-standing protected status, the wildlife here is unafraid and curious. It remains one of the most untouched and otherworldly places I’ve ever visited.

Isabela island Galapagos — Off the coast of Isabela, Galapagos, Ecuador

If you like Isabela, you’ll also enjoy South Georgia and Easter Island.

5. Faroe Islands

The Faroe Islands took me by surprise, charming me with their wild and unfiltered natural beauty, largely uninterrupted by humans. Puffins, gannets, and fulmars crowd cliff edges, waterfalls plunge straight into the ocean, and emerald-hued mountains shift constantly with whatever the ocean winds bring. Visit between May and October, when daylight stretches past midnight. Bring your hiking boots, and don’t miss booking a heimablidni (a home-cooked meal at a local’s house) for an authentic window into the Faroese culture and sustainable way of life.

Faroe Islands Kalsoy hiking — Hiking in the Faroe Islands

Read more about the Faroe Islands here. And if you like the Faroes, you’ll also enjoy Greenland and the Shetlands.

4. North and South Islands, New Zealand

I couldn’t choose just one of New Zealand’s islands–the country is spectacular from end to end. The North Island offers geothermal landscapes, glowworm caves lit like starfields, and rich Māori culture. The South Island brings soaring peaks, glaciers, and some of the best hikes in the world. Fresh salmon, lamb, and wine top off the experience. On many trails, you are unlikely to encounter more than a handful of other people, an increasing rarity in today’s world. Needless to say, I dream of returning.

Read more about New Zealand here and here. And if you like New Zealand, you’ll also enjoy the Faroe Islands and Niue.

3. South Georgia

South Georgia is one of the wildest places on the planet. Apart from a few seasonal researchers, the island is uninhabited by humans and dominated by wildlife. South Georgia is home to the world’s largest king penguin colony (as well as chinstrap, macaroni, and gentoo penguins) along with massive populations of elephant seals, fur seals, and albatross. The island’s history is equally dramatic: this is where Ernest Shackleton landed after his crew’s legendary survival journey across the Weddell Sea off Antarctica. Stepping onto the island feels like stepping into a nature documentary–sure to hear David Attenborough’s voice at any moment.

South Georgia penguins lenticular clouds — A couple of king penguins taking a stroll on South Georgia

Read more about South Georgia here. And if you like South Georgia, you’ll also enjoy the Falklands and Greenland.

2. Aldabra, Seychelles

Aldabra is so pristine that only a handful of researchers live here year-round. It’s one of the few places on Earth where giant tortoises roam freely in astonishing numbers. Coconut crabs scuttle across the forest floor, and the lagoon hosts a thriving underwater world almost untouched by humans. Endless white-sand flats stretch into shallow turquoise water as far as you can see. If there’s a heaven on Earth, Aldabra is close.

Seychelles Aldabra island — Endless hues of blue off Aldabra, Seychelles

Like South Georgia, Aldabra is uninhabited by humans with the exception of a few researchers from the Seychelles Island Foundation, formed to protect the local habitat. It is one of the only places in the world where you will encounter the giant tortoise, wandering alongside colourful coconut crabs and an underwater world teaming with life, largely unbothered by human interference. Impossibly long stretches of white sand disappear into aqua-hued shallow waters stretching into the horizon. If there is a heaven on Earth, this is it.

If you like Aldabra, you’ll also enjoy Millenium Atoll (Kiribati) and Socotra (Yemen).

1. Ikaria, Greece

Named after Icarus, who flew too close to the sun, Ikaria is rugged, mystical, and fiercely independent. I first came to study Greek at the island’s cultural center, then returned again and again to explore its mountain trails, thermal springs, secluded beaches, and villages where time seems to run slower. Its famous honey, wine, and olive oil are some of the best in Greece. At just 99 square miles (255 km²), Ikaria feels both intimate and endlessly explorable.

Ikaria, named after Icarus, who flew too close to the sun, is wild, rugged, fiercely self-sufficient, and breathtakingly beautiful. I’ve travelled there more times than I can count, first to study Greek at the Ikarian Cultural Center, and later to explore more of the island’s diverse topography - stunning mountain hikes, hot sulfur pools, and sandy beaches - all backed by rich local products, from olive oil to honey to wine. Ikaria is just 99 square miles (roughly 255km), and yet each time I visit, I discover even more to explore.

If you like Ikaria, you’ll also enjoy Sardinia and Miyakojima.

For more inspiration, check out my previous post on the Top 7 Beaches in the World.

Ancient civilisations, sandscapes, and secrets in Saudi Arabia

August 31, 2025

Saudi Arabia was not a country I imagined visiting. Until just five years ago, it wasn’t even an option—the country was not open to tourists. Cinemas and concerts were banned, and restaurants enforced gender segregation. Women did not have the right to drive, apply for passports, or hold the same jobs as men. In a few short years, under the reforms of the new Crown Prince, much of that has changed, bringing an influx of foreign investment and curious travelers. So when a business opportunity arose earlier this year, I decided to go with an open mind and experience the country firsthand.

Most visitors arrive in either Riyadh, the capital and largest city, or Jeddah, the second-largest city and Red Sea port. I had applied for an eVisa online a week prior, and immigration was a breeze. I then took a domestic flight to AlUla, a desert oasis on the ancient Nabataean Spice and Incense Route, in the northwest of the country.

Saudi Arabia Al Ula desert mountains caravan — Caravan AlUla

Two hours later, I was driving my Budget rental car across vast sandstone landscapes, snacks from a local supermarket in hand, on my way to Caravan AlUla by Our Habitas. (Note: I strongly recommend downloading an offline map of the area on Google Maps before travelling, as signal strength can come and go.)

After checking into my sleek airstream trailer set in a desert “campground” featuring an open-air tent with breakfast in the mornings, food trucks in the evenings, and an open-air cinema projecting films nightly onto the surrounding cliffs, I drove a few minutes to the main area of the hotel, Our Habitas (caravan guests have full access to the facilities). From there, golf carts take guests to all areas of the grounds, including the stunning infinity pool framed by red-hued mountains. Baking for thousands of years in this unforgiving desert climate, these mountains stand as silent witnesses to the rise and fall of centuries of civilisations, and they will remain long after we are gone. Floating there as the sun began to set, I reflected on just how small we are in the sweep of history.

Saudi Arabia AlUla infinity pool mountains — The infinity pool at Our Habitas, AlUla

Saudi Arabia AlUla Habitas art — An art installation at Our Habitas, AlUla

The grounds are also dotted with art installations, including a series of trampolines nestled in the sand between a pair of cliffs. My inner child joyfully emerged as I bounced and bounced, higher and higher. At night, under a dome of stars, the place felt almost otherworldly. Daily exercise classes and evening sound baths added to the sense of calm.

Saudi Arabia AlUla Hegra tomb — A tomb at Hegra, AlUla

Saudi Arabia AlUla Hegra tomb mountain — A tomb at Hegra

The next morning, I explored Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site. Hundreds of towering Nabataean tombs carved into the sandstone stand as echoes of the kingdom that once thrived there. Visits are only via guided tours (in both English and Arabic) and must be booked in advance online. Nearby, the archaeological sites of Dadan and Jabal Ikmah feature centuries of ancient inscriptions etched into the rock, while the mirrored facade of the newly built event space Maraya appears as a mirage in the desert landscape.

Saudi Arabia AlUla Elephant Rock sunset — Elephant Rock, AlUla at sunset

Saudi Arabia AlUla from above — View of AlUla and surrounds from Harrat viewpoint

For sunset, a popular spot is Elephant Rock, a natural arch with a few food trucks and ample seating. Afterwards, I headed to AlUla’s Old Town, a beautifully restored maze of narrow alleys winding among centuries-old mudbrick dwellings. The main market street cuts straight through the town, lined with cafes, boutiques, and cultural spaces. String lights give the streets a magical glow bridging past and present, and I watched both domestic and foreign visitors stroll past while enjoying a hearty local meal at Grandma Recipe. I marveled that this entire experience has only become possible in the last few years.

Saudi Arabia AlUla Old Town mural — Mural in AlUla Old Town

Saudi Arabia AlUla Old Town cafe — AlUla Old Town

Saudi Arabia AlUla Dunkin Donuts — Enjoying a non-local bite in AlUla Old Town

Saudi Arabia AlUla Old Town night light alley — AlUla Old Town at night

In contrast, Riyadh is all about scale and ambition. With a population of eight million (about the same as New York City), the city buzzes with construction cranes, symbols of its rapid modernization. Projects like Boulevard World—which will feature miniatures of global landmarks—and Bujairi Terrace blend Saudi traditions with modern flair. At the stylish Flamingo Room, we lingered over dinner as a sudden sandstorm swept through, savoring tea and desserts until the skies cleared enough to leave. Air quality is a frequent issue in the city.

My final stop was Jeddah, smaller and more relaxed, with a distinct cuisine and culture. Breakfast at Tofereya introduced me to the city’s flavours, and wandering Al-Balad, its UNESCO-listed old town, felt like stepping back in time. Traditional coral-stone houses with ornate wooden balconies overlooked souks brimming with everything from textiles to trinkets, and local men socialised over shisha and dominoes.

Saudi Arabia Jeddah AlBalad Old Town — Al-Balad, Jeddah

Saudi Arabia Jeddah AlBalad cafe UNESCO — Al-Balad, Jeddah

On my last evening, we feasted on smoky grilled meats at the popular 7 Ribs. Afterwards, we headed for a sunset stroll to the Jeddah Promenade, which stretches for miles along the Red Sea. Families, couples, and groups of friends gathered along the waterfront, the refreshing breeze carrying conversation and laughter. It was in these daily moments of connection that Saudi Arabia revealed itself most fully: a place of true hospitality, warmth, and astonishing transformation.

I left with the sense that I’d only skimmed the surface of this vast country (the world’s twelfth-largest) but also with deep gratitude for the openness with which it welcomed me. Saudi Arabia is changing with dizzying speed, and for travelers willing to come with curiosity and respect, it offers a truly unique experience.

Saudi Arabia Jeddah AlBalad door — Al-Balad, Jeddah

Where to eat

Tama at Habitas, AlUla

Grandma Recipe, AlUla

Okto at Harrat Viewpoint, AlUla

Flamingo Room, Riyadh

Tofereya, Jeddah

7 Ribs, Jeddah

Where to stay

Caravan by Our Habitas, AlUla

Dar Tantora, AlUla

Novotel Sahafa, Riyadh

Miyakojima: Japan’s remote island paradise

August 23, 2025

On my latest visit to Japan, after a few indulgent days in Tokyo feasting on omakase sushi, flavourful bowls of ramen, and uni (sea urchin) in every possible form, we hopped on a nearly three-hour flight south to Miyakojima. Miyakojima, or Miyako island, is part of Japan’s southernmost prefecture of Okinawa, comprising 160 islands (of which just 49 are inhabited). Four more islands—Kurima, Irabu, Shimoji, and Ikema—are connected to Miyako via bridges, making exploration of the archipelago refreshingly easy.

There’s an undeniable allure to remote islands—their unique customs and traditions, the stories of those who call them home, and the resourceful ways in which people weave the island’s natural bounty into the fabric of daily life. Miyakojima is all that, and more. Over four days exploring the island group, we sampled local delicacies ranging from sea grapes to coconut crab, met artisans who embody deep pride and excellence in their craft, and stumbled upon white sand beaches so pristine and empty they felt like secrets.

Japan Okinawa Miyakojima Island white sand beach — One of Miyakojima’s many beautiful beaches

Japan Okinawa Miyakojima island scuba diving — Scuba diving off the north shore of Irabu island, Japan

Underwater, the islands are just as breathtaking. While scuba diving with Penguin Divers, we found ourselves face-to-face with sea turtles drifting gracefully, moray eels peering from crevices, an octopus unfurling in the shadows, and flashes of boxfish, mantis shrimp, and tuna weaving through coral arches. Many sites are also snorkelling-friendly.

One of our favourite meals was lunch at Rainbow Fish, a restaurant literally built from the ground up by the chef. Each dish is cooked to order from an Italian-inspired menu with a Japanese twist. I ordered the homemade spaghetti with mentaiko cream sauce, topped with shredded nori—easily as good as anything I’d eaten in Italy a month prior. It was so good, in fact, that I ordered it again. Afterwards, we chatted with the chef about his journey to the island, and he turned out to be as humble as he is talented.

Japan Okinawa Miyakojima red octopus statue — The vibrant octopus at Tako Park, Kurima island, Japan

Afterwards, we strolled to Tako Park, where a giant red octopus statue offers welcome shade and sea breezes on hot days. From there, we made our way to another animal-shaped structure, the Makiyama Observatory. The massive concrete structure, said to resemble a bird, commands sweeping views of the surrounding area, including the iconic Irabuohashi Bridge, its waves undulating over the surrounding shades of turquoise sea. A short drive away, Toguchinohama beach unfurled in a long crescent of white sand, dotted with just a handful of visitors on a national holiday weekend in August.

Japan Okinawa Miyakojima Toguchinohama beach — Toguchinohama beach, Irabu island, Japan

Even more spectacular was Sunayama beach, a short walk downhill from the car park. Its signature rock arch is now covered with netting for safety, but its true allure lies in the dazzling array of aquas and blues stretching to the horizon. We spent the afternoon wading through crystal clear shallows leading to sand banks and secluded coves. The best part? We had it all to ourselves.

Japan Okinawa Miyakojima Sunayama beach — The entrance to Sunayama beach, Miyakojima, Japan

That evening, we splurged on dinner at the newly opened Rosewood hotel, where the menu showcases local ingredients in simple preparations. Looking over the ocean as the setting sun colored the landscape in hues of deep indigo, we reflected on how lucky we are to be able to experience such an incredible place.

Japan Okinawa Miyakojima Uni-no-hama sandbar — Uni-no-hama sandbar, Miyakojima

The following morning, we set out with Jet Cruise to Uni-no-hama, a sandbar that emerges only at low tide just south of the Irabuohashi bridge. Surrounded by endless shallows and only a scattering of visitors, it felt like a fleeting mirage. Afterwards, we cooled off with some of the best mint chocolate chip ice cream I’ve ever had (made with locally grown mint) at Miyakojima Fruit Parlor, picked up sea grapes and salt at Island Station market, and headed to the airport, buzzing with the thrill of discovery. Miyakojima may be far-flung, but that is precisely its charm. Here, nature, tradition, and hospitality come together to create the kind of place that stays with you long after you leave.

Where to eat & drink

Rainbow Fish, Kurima island

Rosewood hotel, Miyakojima (multiple restaurants; reservations required)

Miyakojima Fruit Parlor, Miyakojima (ice cream made with local ingredients)

Bar Think, Miyakojima (amazing cocktails served by a very friendly 70-something-year-old bartender)

Island Station, Miyakojima (for groceries and items to bring home)

Goya Izakaya, Miyakojima (for local specialties, including noodles or rice with pork, tofu, and sashimi). It’s on Nishizatoo street, which is lined with many restaurants and late night spots.

Where to stay

Miyakojima Tokyu, Miyakojima (Note: while the setting by Yonaha beach is beautiful, and the included breakfast buffet was varied and filling, the thin walls meant we heard our neighbours’ every move)

City guide: Seattle

December 16, 2024

Seattle is the city that has seemingly everything in a compact package: easy access to nature (hiking, kayaking, skiing - you name it, Seattle’s got it), amazing seafood and a relatively diverse international cuisine, and no state or city income tax. Its reputation of grey skies and rainy days is somewhat unfounded: annual rainfall in New York is actually higher than in Seattle. While winter days do tend to be misty, they pave the way for gloriously sunny summers, when it doesn’t get dark until after 10pm and seemingly the whole city is outdoors. Below are some of my favourite spots for eating, drinking, and enjoying life in Seattle. This is by no means an exhaustive list, and I omitted places I didn’t find to be unique or notable. It’s loosely ordered from north to south, west to east:

Restaurants & bars

Indian-Nepali Kitchen - A diverse, wide-ranging set of North Indian and Nepali done consistently well
Sophon - Relatively new Cambodian restaurant that’s still finding its footing but delivers for an underrepresented cuisine in the area
Beast and Cleaver - Butcher shop that also does burger and sandwich popups as well as a full-service restaurant in the evenings
Ray’s Cafe and Restaurant - Stunning sunset views and a solid take on local ingredients
Bongos - Caribbean cuisine in a laid-back setting with beach vacation vibes
Spice Waala - Affordable and tasty take on Indian street food
Sunset Tavern - Retro vibe with solid drinks and live music in the back
King’s Hardware - Fun local dive bar that stays open as late as Seattle does it (typically 1am)
Ballard Sunday Farmers Market - The best farmers market in Seattle, with great tents to grab a bite to eat, including Bangalore Kitchen and Vespucci Pizza
Strega Pizzeria - Run by the same folks as Vespucci Pizza, this is the best Neapolitan style pizza in Seattle
The Walrus & Carpenter - Long-standing local favourite featuring fresh local seafood that will also make a dent in your wallet
Dog Yard Bar - A fun alternative to a dog park serving beer and light bites with regular events and breed meetups
Urban Family Brewing Co - One of many Ballard breweries worth checking out, this one has a nice outdoor space and great selection of sours
Brimmer & Heeltap - $2 local oysters at happy hour and an inspired menu in a charming garden setting
Atoma - Inventive New American cuisine featuring local, seasonal ingredients
Kabul Afghan Cuisine - Traditional Afghan dishes and attentive staff
Frelard Tamales - Previously available as a takeout window, large swaths of Seattle cheered when they opened a sit-down restaurant
Kamonegi - Delicious and inspired menu focused on soba from a female noodle master
Westward - One of my favourite restaurants in Seattle, Westward particularly thrives during the summertime, when you can sample perfectly prepared seafood dishes while enjoying views of the Seattle skyline across Lake Union
Ivar’s Salmon House (several outposts) - Solid take on local chowder and fish & chips
Hey Bagel - Previously available only via monthly drops, this is the long-awaited storefront from Andrew Rubinstein, whose passion and love for bagels is evident in every bite
Mt. Bagel - Tasty runner-up to Hey Bagel
Hello Robin - Amazing cookies with inventive seasonal flavours
Din Tai Fung (several outposts) - Solid outpost for soup dumplings and noodles
Spinnaker Chocolate - High-end locally made chocolate
Fiddler’s Inn Pub & Pizza - Neighbourhood pub with a sizeable garden and beer and food offerings to match
Sushi Kappo Tamura - As a lover of great sushi, I tried just about every highly rated or recommended sushi and omakase spot in the area, and Sushi Kappo Tamura was by far the best in Seattle
Shiro’s Sushi - Delicious runner-up to SKT
How to Cook a Wolf - Mediterranean-inspired dishes in a lively neighbourhood setting
Taylor Shellfish (several locations) - Great oysters sourced from their local farms (a fun day trip!) along with fresh Dungeness crab and other seafood dishes with prices to match
Paju - Fresh and delicious takes on Korean cuisine; outstanding on every level
mbar - Go for the beautiful rooftop views, stay for the surprisingly tasty Mediterranean food
Six Seven Restaurant - Set in the Edgewater Hotel (where The Beatles famously stayed), come here for a special occasion to enjoy outstanding seafood with stunning water views
Wild Salmon Seafood Market - Located in the Fisherman’s Terminal, this is one of the best spots to get your fresh fish and seafood (and they have salmon treats for dogs, too)
Rob Roy - Great cocktails with fun seasonal themes
The Pink Door - Delicious Italian-inspired dishes with a beautiful rooftop terrace and live music most evenings; book well in advance
The Nest - Rooftop bar with stunning views at the Thompson hotel
The Goldfinch - Elegant and cozy spot in the Four Seasons showcasing local ingredients
Fran’s Chocolates - High-end chocolates worth a splurge
Elliott’s Oyster House - In a touristy area, but with one of the most extensive oyster selections anywhere and great water views, it’s hard to beat
Luke’s Lobster - Yes, they are from the East Coast, but only here will you find their crab roll made with Dungeness crab, and it’s one of the best I’ve ever had
Rojo’s Mexican Food - Vegan Mexican food? Yes, it is that good
Uwajimaya - Large Asian grocery store with wide selection; nearby are many great little eateries that would require their own list to properly write up
Ramen Danbo - The best ramen I’ve had in the U.S.
Life on Mars - Quirky bar and eatery serving unique cocktails
Unicorn - An anything goes, everyone is welcome bar with a carnival theme upstairs and a dance floor downstairs
Spinasse - Elegant spot for Northern Italian cuisine; book well in advance
Corvus and Company - Great spot for cocktails and late night bites
Agelgil Ethiopian - Perhaps the best Ethiopian restaurant in Seattle (I tried 6 or 7 different spots)
Stevie’s Famous - If you’re craving an NY slice of pizza, this is the only place in town that gets it right (I tried 10 or so different spots), but be prepared to spend roughly 2-3x NYC prices
Easy Street Records & Cafe - A fun place to browse a wide selection of vinyl and grab a bite to eat
Xochi - Amazing tacos with great flavour and heat; good place to stop after a hike en route back to town

Activities & day trips

Seattle’s Space Needle, Museum of Pop Art, and Grass Blades sculpture

Kerry Park for the best views of Seattle, with Mt Rainier in the background
Golden Gardens - Gorgeous beach park with kitesurfing, kayaking, and sailing nearby
Ballard locks and Botanical Garden - A great place to watch the salmon run in the fall and see boats and ships of all sizes pass between Puget Sound and Lake Union
Magnuson Park - A beautiful park on Lake Washington, including one of the best dog parks around
Discovery Park - Seattle’s largest park, with miles of hiking trails and beautiful beachfront
Green Lake - Walk around the lake (just under 3 miles) to enjoy the beautiful scenery and people watch
Olympic Sculpture Park, with Richard Serra’s Wake as its centerpiece
Elliott Bay Book Company - Beautiful bookstore and an easy place to while away an hour or two
Lake Union and Lake Washington - One of the best ways to explore is to rent a boat (preferably with a captain to show you the sites)
Kayaking - An amazing way to explore Seattle; the Agua Verde Paddle Club is a great place to start
Museum of Pop Culture for fun insight into locals like Jimi Hendrix; don’t miss the Grass Blades sculpture nearby
Go mushroom foraging - I thoroughly enjoyed the experience with the female-founded Savor the Wild Tours
Whidbey Island - A beautiful day trip from Seattle; don’t miss Meerkerk Gardens, Price Sculpture Forest, Fort Ebey State Park, Deception Pass State Park, and the Restaurant at Captain Whidbey, among many others
Lake Quinault - An overnight trip from Seattle, Lake Quinault features miles of stunning hikes in one of the wettest places in the U.S., and you can cool off afterwards with a dip in the lake. Matt Houghton of Valley of Giants Nature Tours is the best local guide you could ask for.
Olympic National Park - My favourite of Washington’s 3 national parks. Don’t miss the Hoh River trail, Storm King, and Hurricane Hill
North Cascades National Park - The highlight for me was the Maple Pass loop trail, and don’t miss the Blue Lake trail or the Diablo Lake vista point
Mt Rainier National Park - The Sheep Lake and Sourdough Gap trail starting just outside of and finishing in the park will take you through a stunning range of scenery, and be sure to check out the views of Mt Rainier from Tipsoo Lake
Snow Lake - A day trip from Seattle, this hike will take you through some varied terrain with a rewarding dip in the crystal-clear lake
Crystal Mountain - Some of the best skiing in Washington state, just under a 2 hour drive from Seattle

Greenland: among the giants

August 09, 2024

Greenland always loomed large on the maps I spent hours poring over during my childhood. This is partly due to its actual size (it’s the largest island in the world) and partly due to land mass closer to the poles appearing more vertically stretched on common map projections. One of the first fun facts I learned about Greenland is that the Vikings named it so to entice more settlers. In reality, the vast majority of Greenland (80%) is covered by an ice cap, and its 55,000 inhabitants live predominantly along its western coast. While Greenland is geographically part of North America, it is politically part of Denmark (and autonomous in a number of ways).

Getting to Greenland requires some time and dedication, as the best way to reach it is via a nearly 5 hour flight from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq, a small town of about 500 inhabitants and the only airport in Greenland able to handle larger aircraft (originally built as a military base during World War II). Kangerlussuaq is a good jumping off point for visiting the polar ice cap (as a day trip, or more commonly an overnight camping trip), or for internal flights within Greenland. Note that the weather is notoriously fickle; delays and cancellations are not uncommon, so plan accordingly. Upon landing, I took a short flight to Ilulissat, a town further north on the western coast. There are no roads between towns in Greenland—just airplanes, boats, dog sleds, and snowmobiles. I booked all my flights directly (including the roundtrip from Copenhagen) via Air Greenland.

Colorful buildings, Ilulissat, Greenland — Colourful buildings in the town of Ilulissat

Street in Ilulissat, Greenland — Walking around Ilulissat

While Ilulissat is the third largest town in Greenland, its population is 4,600, so you’ll need to plan ahead for your accommodation and transport. You can visit any time of year, but the summer months, during which the sun never fully sets, tend to be most popular (conversely, during winter there is little daylight). The town itself is a colorful sprawl of houses and buildings made to withstand the harsh winters, with the color of the building indicating its use (yellow for doctors and hospitals, red for teachers and churches, blue for fishermen and fish factories, etc.). After settling into my centrally located Airbnb, I went for a walk through town, finding my way to one of the western viewpoints over the bay. I enjoyed lunch at Cafe Iluliaq, which offers a range of different meals, with both locals and tourists seated outside to enjoy the summer sunshine. For dinner, Inuit Cafe offers perhaps some of the best food in Ilulissat, including a range of local specialties. You’ll also find a couple of supermarkets with a decent array of products, though keep in mind that Greenland imports almost everything except for fish, so prices are high and selection is limited. Note that everything closes quite early, even in summer (unless you happen to be invited to one of the local all-night parties).

Iceberg in Disko Bay, Greenland — Icebergs in Disko Bay

Midnight sun over icebergs, Disko Bay, Greenland — Midnight colours in Disko Bay

That evening, I embarked on a previously booked icefjord boat tour, which turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. The tours typically depart around 10pm to take advantage of the summer midnight sun. We glided among sunset-tinted icebergs, spotting numerous humpback whales putting on quite the display, flukes playfully raised and blowholes spouting above the sea. The sunset went on for hours after our return, soon turning into a bright dawn.

The next day, I embarked on a kayaking excursion with Ilulissat Adventures around Disko Bay. They provide all the gear, including a drysuit—bring some warm wool layers to wear underneath. In general, layers are key to Greenland, as the average summer temperature in Greenland is about 10C (50F) and can fluctuate significantly. While some days were so warm I could wear a t-shirt, others necessitated protective layers against pelting rain and winds so strong I could barely breathe.

Kayaking in Disko Bay, Greenland — Kayaking in Disko Bay

It felt truly spectacular to be on the water in close proximity to giant icebergs, and a good reminder of how small we are in the larger view. In a similar vein, the spectacular Ilulissat Isfjordscenter (a short walk from the town center), newly constructed and opened in 2021, is also worth a visit. Its unique architecture and informative exhibits are sure to occupy the better part of a couple of hours, and it’s also the start of a couple of short trails to reach the ice cap, a UNESCO World heritage site. Perhaps my favourite part of the whole trip, the Ilulissat Icefjord is at once breathtakingly beautiful, awe-inspiring, and humbling; it will leave you questioning humanity’s role and place on this planet.

Ice cap, Ilulissat, Greenland — Walking from Ilulissat Isfjordscenter to the icefjord

The views and sounds are stunning: this giant, slow-moving glacier, witness to thousands of centuries past, passes slowly before you, iceberg-sized chunks breaking off and echoing, cracking and heaving, into the abyss. It’s at once both larger than life and disappearing before our very eyes: in recent years, the ice sheet has been melting at record levels. Second in size only to Antarctica, Greenland’s ice sheet contains 12% of the world’s glacier ice. Its melting is predicted to result in significant sea level rises worldwide that will change life as we know it over the next few generations.

View of icebergs in Disko Bay, Ilulissat, Greenland — View of Disko Bay on a short hike from Ilulissat

A good place to continue philosophizing is always over great local food and wine. Koks is an excellent restaurant typically based in another Danish territory, the Faroe Islands. I had the privilege of dining there during my trip to the Faroe Islands a few years back. While Koks constructs a new home for their restaurant in the Faroes, they have established a summer residency in Ilimanaq, Greenland, accessible from Ilulissat via a 90 minute boat ride through even more icebergs. Reservations are recommended well in advance, and you’ll book the boat transfer separately through World of Greenland. Koks in Greenland does not disappoint, focusing on showcasing the best of what the area has to offer in ways that are both delicious and surprising. Afterwards, enjoy a magical sunset-hued ride back to Ilulissat at the end of the evening.

Dinner at Koks Restaurant, Ilimanaq, Greenland — A dish with wine pairing at Koks in Ilimanaq

Ilimanaq, Greenland — The town of Ilimanaq, a 90 minute boat ride from Ilulissat

After a few nights in Ilulissat, I caught the local Arctic Umiaq ferry that takes both locals and tourists up and down Greenland’s western coast. I booked a cabin for the 36 hour journey down to Nuuk, Greenland’s capital; while expensive, it afforded a calm and private place to sleep and rest during the day. The ferry is a fun experience and special way to see Greenland, including some tiny coastal villages (some stops along the way required us to launch a dinghy to pick up the passengers and bring them aboard). It’s a basic ship with relatively simple food options (bring snacks and whatever else you might like aboard, including books, games, etc.). It’s typically too windy to be outside for more than a few minutes at a time, though you can disembark at some of the larger ports en route (notably Sisimiut, which was a nice place to stretch my legs and walk around for a couple of hours)—check first on the departure time before disembarking.

Arctic Umiaq ferry, Greenland — The Arctic Umiaq ferry

Kangaamiut, Greenland — The town of Kangaamiut seen from the ferry

Nuuk is worth a night or two to get a sense of life in Greenland’s capital and largest town, though it is decidedly less charming than Ilulissat. During my stay, the winds were too strong for most outdoor activities, and the standup paddleboard tour I’d booked was cancelled. This is not uncommon in Greenland, and travelling here during any time of year requires an open mind and flexibility. My flight from Nuuk back to Kangerlussuaq was repeatedly delayed and then cancelled due to the high winds, and I eventually arrived on another flight later that evening once the winds had temporarily relented. As it was after 6pm, nothing was open in Kangerlussuaq (no grocery stores, restaurants, etc., of which there are just a couple to begin with), so be sure to have food with you. I was personally saved by my Airbnb host’s instant ramen supply, for which I am eternally grateful. Kangerlussuaq is largely skippable except as a starting point for an ice sheet tour, a worthwhile experience to see a piece of our planet that may not be around for much longer.