Road trip: sands, stalagmites and snow in New Mexico

June 07, 2020

New Mexico is the stuff that road trip dreams are made of. Long stretches of lunar-like landscapes with distant peaks that always feel slightly out of reach, the kind of warm heat that you want to sink into and stay in a while. It’s a place for the adventurous, yes, but also the laid-back. Perfect for a solitary long weekend or a weeklong trip with a friend or partner.

White Sands National Park visitor center

I started my trip in Albuquerque, which in pre-covid, fairytale times was serviced by daily nonstop flights on Jetblue from JFK. While the state has started opening up, not all parks are yet open, so be sure to check status before heading out. I drove south from Albuquerque, towards White Sands National Park, passing by the interestingly named town of Truth or Consequences, which is also home to a number of natural hot springs, followed by a classic breakfast of eggs, bacon, and French toast at Sugies Diner in Las Cruces. I arrived at White Sands National Park in the early afternoon and explored as the sky slowly turned from bright blue to deeper purple and pink as the evening crept in and the sun slowly began to set. It’s a place you’ll want to linger, yes, and plan your return.

The sands get their white colour from gypsum crystals - the largest such dunefield on earth. Formed 7,000-10,000 years ago from selenite crystals that over time eroded into gypsum, White Sands National Park is today occasionally subject to closure, as it’s completely surrounded by the White Sands Missile Range. It’s certainly one of the most alien landscapes I’ve ever seen, and it’s easy to park your car at one of many stopping points in the park and quickly get lost in the dunes (be sure to bring plenty of water and know how to make your way back to your car). The deep blue outline of the San Andres range contrasts with the stark white wind patterns etched into the dunes, broken every so often by the thin lines of a determined desert plant. I experienced several dune stages: an initial liberating exploration marked by the sheer pleasure of running fresh tracks and rolling in the sand to feel its warmth; a secondary, more productive phase that entailed resurrecting childhood gymnastics moves; finally, a contemplative phase during which I sat in place, jotting down stray thoughts and having deeper conversations with friends and family in faraway places over the phone.

I would happily have lingered longer, but I’d booked a motel just outside Carlsbad for the night, and a longer drive through the Lincoln National Forest (during which it snowed!) still awaited me. I’d recommend staying in the area if you’ve got more time, but I really enjoyed arriving to Carlsbad Caverns National Park the next morning just before opening, which allowed me to be the first person to enter that day. Combined with a New York City walking speed, this meant I had a good 15-20 minutes alone in the depths of the caverns before any other visitors caught up to interrupt the slow dripping sounds echoing within the cave system. Much of the system is inaccessible to visitors, and the open part unfortunately has ropes and clearly-marked walking paths, which take away from what otherwise might feel closer to nature. It’s still very much worth a visit, especially if you can get there before the crowds.

Stalagmites and stalactites at Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Driving north towards Santa Fe, I passed by Roswell, whose claim to fame is the “UFO” crash in 1947 (the UFO in question was actually a U.S. Air Force weather balloon), and which now houses a UFO museum and research center. As I approached Vaughn, the landscape became increasingly desolate, with an occasional shuttered gas station or motel that appeared to date back to the 1950s. It’s the kind of place where time has stopped, and most people simply pass through, but as I think back on my trip, those memories of the afternoon desert sun shining on a place fallen out of favour linger.

I reached Santa Fe in the early evening, checking in to the Drury Plaza Hotel, for which I’d found an amazing rate online. It was a bit too chilly to use the rooftop pool, but I happily settled by the roaring fireplace in the lounge with a complimentary gin & tonic and light bites from the hotel’s free daily happy hour. Afterwards, I strolled through town, stumbling upon some live music, and picking up snacks and wine at La Casa Sena wine shop. I also enjoyed sampling some of Gruet’s delicious sparkling wines at their Santa Fe tasting room, and for dessert, Kakawa Chocolate house is unbeatable. Their hot chocolate elixir is some of the best I’ve ever had, and it’s impossible to leave without sampling some of their handmade chocolates.

The following day, I set out early for the 2 hour drive to Taos for a day of skiing. The conditions at the mountain can be hit or miss depending on the snowfall, but the terrain is still exciting. After a few runs, I grew tired of the quaint, slow lift chairs that are in need of an upgrade - time truly does feel like it runs more slowly.

En route back to Santa Fe, I passed through a number of picturesque towns, including Arroyo Seco, which features a few small gift shops. Should you have more time, further west lies Carson National Forest, home to more stunning landscapes, including the area around Abiquiu, from where Georgia O’Keeffe drew inspiration. As mine was a shorter trip, I had to settle for checking out some of her art at the small but excellently curated Georgia O’Keeffe museum in downtown Santa Fe. The more I travel, the more I like to give myself a reason to go back to a place I really enjoyed to which I might not otherwise pay another visit. So, New Mexico, I’ll be back!

Where to eat & drink

Sugies Diner, Las Cruces

Gruet’s tasting room, Santa Fe

Kakawa Chocolate house, Santa Fe

La Casa Sena, Santa Fe

Where to stay

Drury Plaza Hotel, Santa Fe

Paintings at the Georgia O’Keeffe museum in Santa Fe

In the land of stones, spices and spirits

November 17, 2019

In a recent op-ed in the New York Times, Martin Scorsese writes that cinema is “about revelation—aesthetic, emotional and spiritual revelation,” and the best films are the ones that take risks to engage, excite and thrill the audience. I was reminded of his words over lunch last week at Pitiona restaurant in Oaxaca, Mexico, where I ate perhaps my favourite meal of the year. The menu features a wide range of dishes, and I wanted to try every single one. Chef José Manuel Baños combines local ingredients such as tasajo (a cut of beef), grasshopper and amaranth with a flair for unusual, unique combinations that delight the palate. Over a spectacular meal of passionfruit ceviche, guacamole with crickets and tasajo, chickpea mushroom soup, arroz milpa with duck chicharron, and snapper with leek foam, I reflected that Scorsese’s words can be aptly used to describe the culinary arts as well. What more could you want? A spectacular view overlooking the baroque, green-hued Santo Domingo church. Yes, there is that, too.

Passionfruit ceviche masterpiece at Pitiona restaurant

We ate another memorable meal at Alfonsina (cash only, reservations required), on the outskirts of Oaxaca city, located by a courtyard the owner-chef shares with his neighbours. Five courses (including a dessert course) are served at a communal table. Among the dishes we were treated to were a flavourful corvina ceviche in a sesame-based sauce, and, later, the same fish cooked in a spicy mole sauce. We walked off lunch around the Zócalo, Oaxaca’s main square, over which the Cathedral prominently soars, and checked out local arts and crafts in the nearby markets. The Zócalo is also a great spot for people watching while sipping on a local hot chocolate at Mayordomo (get the one with no added sugar with milk as a base), which you can also bring home with you.

When not eating, Oaxaca’s vibrant culture and history will easily fill up several days, if not weeks. Don’t miss the aforementioned Santo Domingo church, and the Textile Museum was well worth a stop. Skippable is the small botanical garden, which forces you on a painfully slow, two-hour tour to view the resident plants. We particularly enjoyed contrasting the neighbouring Zapotec sites of Mitla and Monte Albán. The former is small, easily seen in the span of an hour, and features intricate stonework that does not use any mortar. It is impressive how well-preserved many of the structures are. Monte Albán, on the other hand, is a sprawling site, less focused on the details of the stonework and more so on the layout and community that once thrived there. Wandering among the temples, some dating as far back as 2,500 years ago, you sense how small our presence is in the wider span of history. What will human civilisation be like 2,500 years hence? We pondered this and other questions over drinks at Selva, a newly opened mezcal-focused cocktail bar, back in the city. The vibe is jungle chic, the staff are incredibly friendly, and the drinks were so flavourful that one quickly turned into three.

One of the most stunning sites in the area is made by nature rather than humans: Hierve el Agua, a set of calcified waterfalls and small, vibrantly coloured pools in various hues of green, yellow and blue. The formations are deposits of calcium carbonate and other minerals that remain from previous waterfalls, a similar process to the creation of stalactites in caves. We arrived when the site opened and were lucky enough to have it largely to ourselves for about 45 minutes, during which we staged a photoshoot of Instagram-worthy calibre. Best of all, you can take a dip in the pools, refreshing when outdoor temperatures climb quickly with the exposed sun. Should you want to stay in the area (it’s about a 2 hour drive back to Oaxaca), I highly recommend our Airbnb in Mitla (walking distance to the ruins). It’s run by a young family and features a large pool and patio, a cactus garden, a vinyl record player (and records), striking sunsets, and spectacular stargazing, at roughly $60 USD/night. Our only regret was not staying longer.

For those that have more time, I’d recommend renting a car to travel further afield. We enjoyed the curvy mountain road between Oaxaca and Puerto Ángel, which climbs and climbs through the mountains, giving you stunning views over the surrounding range. We also passed through the town of San José del Pacifico, known among tourists for its temazcal rituals (basically a mud sweat lodge) featuring locally picked magic mushrooms (the season runs from June to September). Once you hit the coast, you’ll be rewarded with long stretches of beach featuring nudists (at Playa Zipolite) or surfers (at Mazunte or Puerto Escondido). I’d recommend lingering (one-way car rentals are offered by Puerto-Escondido based U-car) to sink into the slower pace of life here. We had a fantastic dinner at the Italian-run Bacco, featuring homemade pastas and fresh, locally-sourced toppings for pizzas, fish and meats. At night, should you visit around the time of a full moon, which we luckily did, you’ll see bioluminescence in the ocean as you watch the waves crash on the beach. It’s the perfect end—or beginning—to a spiritual and cultural journey through this most fascinating of Mexican states.

One of hundreds of striking courtyards in Oaxaca

Where to eat & drink

Pitiona, Oaxaca

Alfonsina, Oaxaca outskirts

Mayordomo, Oaxaca

Selva, Oaxaca

Bacco, Playa Zipolite

Where to stay

Airbnb in Mitla

New Zealand: North and South Islands in 2 weeks

October 23, 2018

Back in college, I used to think people who studied abroad in New Zealand were silly. Why spend time in a place where the spoken language was English? I was much much better off learning French language and customs living with my 9-person host family in Rennes or picking up on Greek through its rich music during my homestay in Larissa. New Zealand was a waste of time. Or so I thought. Little did I know it would turn out to be perhaps the most beautiful country I would visit, and it would hit me so hard I would fantasize about finding excuses to go back, spend more time there, and perhaps even live there. Turns out I was the silly one for dismissing it so quickly.

New Zealand is by far one the most ambitious trips I’ve planned—two weeks through both the North and South Islands, covering 11 of the country’s 16 provinces (roughly 3000 km in total), is likely crazy to most, but it was all the time I had. I am already plotting my next trip back.

I flew from NYC to Auckland roundtrip via LA on American Airlines (at a cost of $0, thanks to my Chase Sapphire Reserve miles!). I stayed only at Airbnbs throughout the trip - in this case a cheaper option, and it gave me the opportunity to meet so many people along the way.

Day 1: Auckland

I landed in the morning in Auckland and rented a one-way car (return in to Christchurch) from Apex rentals, which included the one-way ferry from Wellington to Picton and hence had the best price by far. The day’s plan originally included an ambitious idea of going to Waiheke island to check out its famed beaches, vineyards and olive oil, but I ended up taking it easy in Auckland instead, saving Waiheke for next time. I first explored the Mission Bay waterfront area, getting brunch and enjoying ice cream while walking along the beach. It’s got a friendly, local neighbourhood vibe. After parking in South-central Auckland, I walked up along Queen St and stopped at the Auckland Art Museum, checking out Yayoi Kusama’s obliteration room—a fun, interactive experience. The museum is really well done, with art ranging from Maori to modern, and an easy place to while away a few hours. I made my way to the Downtown Ferry terminal and took the ferry over to Devonport, from where I walked east along the seaside taking photos and enjoying the ocean breeze. I stopped in for a drink at the bar at Devon on the Wharf before hopping a ferry back, enjoying views of downtown Auckland, where I indulged in some wine and oysters and chatted with the French servers at Shucker Brothers. Dinner was at Soul Bar + Bistro, one of the few downtown restaurants open at the end of December, as most of the city clears out on holiday. Exhausted, I made my way to my Airbnb and collapsed.

Yayoi Kusama’s Obliteration Room at the Auckland Art Museum — Yayoi Kusama’s *Obliteration Room* at the Auckland Art Museum

Day 2: Waitomo & Rotorua

Around 7am I hit the road and headed to Glowing Adventures for their Waitomo cave photography tour. They supply clothes as you get both wet and dirty during the tour, and it’s more involved and feels less touristy than other tours, as there are no pre-built pathways, handrails, installed lights, etc.—the caves have been left unmodified. Other tours include boat rides, which this one did not, but you do walk through some water and see some eels. The experience of seeing the light blue glow of the worms in the otherwise dark cave was otherworldly and unforgettable, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. Afterwards, you can shower, change, and enjoy a cup of tea and some cookies before moving on. In the afternoon, a fun and windy road took me to Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland, which truly lives up to the name. The champagne pool, with its smoking hues of bright orange and green, is a must-see on any New Zealand itinerary. The whole walk is spectacular, worth a good couple of hours. And the gift shop is a fun place to get a mud mask (or kiwi or manuka honey, if you prefer) for later in the evening. Finally, I checked out the Rotorua Thursday night market, a crowded but fun affair, before heading to my Airbnb by Lake Taupo.

Squeezing into tight spaces in the Waitomo caves

Champagne pool at Wai-o-tapu Thermal Wonderland

Day 3: Lake Taupo & surrounds

While I was scheduled to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of the North Island’s highlights, a one-way 20km hike through alpine terrain, very high winds prevented this from happening. Instead, I hiked between Kinloch Beach and Kawakawa Bay, checked out the Huka Honey Farm, and did a thrilling and wet jet boat ride by Huka Falls (apparently the most visited attraction in the country, though I wouldn’t necessarily include it in my highlights). I stopped in to The Merchant of Lake Taupo to purchase some local products, including wine and car snacks. In the evening, I headed to a fantastic Airbnb in Taihape, bringing me a bit closer to Wellington for the next day’s crossing to the South Island. Fiona was an exceptionally kind host, and her homemade breakfast will warm any weary traveller’s stomach and heart.

Day 4: Wellington

I drove to Wellington in the morning, checking out the views of the city from the Mt Victoria viewpoint. After parking downtown, I enjoyed some local seafood at Shed5, from which I spotted a sailboat with a beautiful dalmation and a sign advertising sails in the harbor to see local penguins. I couldn’t resist, and soon found myself on a fantastic afternoon catamaran trip with Megisti Sailing Charters and a dozen or so other guests. While we weren’t lucky enough to spot penguins, dangling my feet over the side of the catamaran while sipping wine and enjoying the views of Wellington and surrounds was a pretty decadent experience. Before leaving town, I feasted on crab and more seafood at the Crab Shack, tried some local wines at the great little Noble Rot wine bar, picked up some Kapiti cheeses from a market nearby, and wandered around the surrounding area, which had a bit of a Haight-Ashbury feel to it. I took the 18:30 car ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island, arriving a few hours later, and leaving me to drive to my Airbnb in Cable Bay at night (not something I would recommend if you can spare an extra day in the Picton area). On the plus side, my Airbnb in Cable Bay was stunning, with views over the bay and free kayaks available to take out for a ride (highly recommended).

Day 5: Cable Bay and start of the South Island

This was one of my most relaxing days, largely spent kayaking around Cable Bay, getting brunch outside at Cable Bay Cafe up the road from the Airbnb, and tasting wines at the numerous local vineyards near Nelson, including Fossil Ridge and the sparkling at Seifried Estate (my favourite). In the afternoon, I made my way to the best Airbnb of the trip, on a farm run by a family, in a detached house with its own hot tub. Richard, Sue and Cass and their 2 Leonbergers, Chewy and Toffee, were so welcoming that they invited me to have the pizza they were cooking in their outdoor oven and sit with them over some wine. They call their Airbnb a Sanctuary for the Soul, and it truly felt that way—I was right at home. The location is a beautiful rural setting, with sheep and chickens, featuring farm fresh eggs daily. I honestly did not want to leave, and I can’t wait to go back next time I am in the country. I rung in the New Year’s with the locals at the Moutere Inn, New Zealand’s oldest pub, still housed in its original building from 1850. The countdown was off by a bit, but the music was good, and everyone had a great time.

My neighbours at the Airbnb in Motueka, South Island

Day 6: Abel Tasman National Park

I started off 2018 with a one-way hike along the Abel Tasman coast track, leaving Kaiteriteri at 9am and getting dropped off by the water taxi to Torrent Bay and picked up later that afternoon from Bark Bay (about an 8km walk). There are plenty of day walks available, or you can also opt to camp (and have your gear transported for you by the taxi company if desired). Hiking through Abel Tasman was one of the highlights of my trip, winding through a temperate rainforest with occasional stunning views over beaches and coastline, including a very fun and bouncy suspension bridge. It does get quite hot, and while the trail is relatively easy, it’s important to wear proper footwear (flip flops won’t do).

Day 7: West Coast of the South Island

After another breakfast of farm fresh eggs from the chickens next door to my studio, I left Motueka and headed south, stopping en route at Paparoa National Park to check out the unusual pancake rock formations. There’s a dizzying array of other places to visit along the way to Franz Jozef, including the Nile River glow worm experience, cave rafting, and the Hokitika Glowworm Dell. I sped along to make it to Lake Matheson in the late afternoon, going for a walk around the lake to admire the mirror-like reflection of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman mountains in its waters. The cafe off from the parking area served surprisingly good food. At night, I opted for the Minnehaha Glowworm Walk (free, self-guided) near Fox Glacier, which was absolutely spectacular. Wait for full darkness before starting the walk for the full experience.

Day 8: Franz Josef to Wanaka

I had booked a heli ice climbing tour of Franz Josef Glacier, but upon showing up at their offices in the morning, I learned my tour was cancelled due to the weather. This happens frequently, so if you’re really set on the experience, give yourself a few days in the area to be able to try a few days in a row. Be aware that the tours can book out far in advance in the high season. The tour also includes entry to the Glacier Hot Pools, which don’t open until later in the day, so rather than wait around, I opted to visit the West Coast Wildlife Centre, a great place to see the rare kiwi and other New Zealand birds, then made my way south, stopping en route for a short hike (90 min roundtrip) to Monro beach. In the winter and spring months, it’s possible to see Fiordland crested penguins on this beach. I wasn’t there at the right time of year, but even so, the walk was well worth it, and the beach is wild and beautiful. I also stopped en route at Wilkin River Jets for a fantastic and thrilling jet boat trip up the Wilkin and Makarora rivers, complete with 360 degree spins. Another great spot to stop for some photos is in between Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea to admire the spectacular deep shades of blue in both lakes. I drove onward to Wanaka, arriving at my stunning Airbnb overlooking the lake in the late afternoon. My hosts’ red border collie, Sam, greeted me as I came in, and followed me down to the lake for a quick swim, where he insisted I throw him a ball that he would never quite bring back to me all the way to throw again. I located the famous Wanaka Tree and took the obligatory photos (it really is stunning in person), enjoyed a cocktail at the Gin and Raspberry bar, with its open air terrace full before sunset, and bought local, whimsically designed socks with messages like “Salad makes me sad” at Alice in Wanaka before wandering around the town in the evening.

Sam the border collie and I at my Airbnb in Wanaka

Day 9: Wanaka to Queenstown

I had initially planned to hike Roy’s Peak, one of the South Island’s better known attractions, but a wildfire the day before closed access to the hike. Instead, I allowed myself to be a bit lazy and visited a few wineries en route to Queenstown: Chard Farm, Amisfield and Akarua. New Zealand’s climate is particularly good for sauvignon blanc and pinot noir grapes, though being a sparkling wine aficionado, I sought out those wherever I could. The wineries in New Zealand generally felt very unpretentious, and many of the wines were quite good. The Queenstown trail walk is also most definitely worth a detour, with peaceful views over both city and lake and The Remarkables in the distance. In Queenstown, I eventually checked into my Airbnb, run by Philip, who welcomes people from around the world. His hot tub is a big draw and a great place to soak with views of the town and the lake. That evening in the living room, over a glass of local wine, I chatted with Sabine from France, who told me about some of the fascinating work she does with the Red Cross in Asia. One of the best things about travel is learning about the lives of people along the way and realising that in the end, we are not so different from each other regardless of the place.

Day 10: Milford Sound

I woke up early for the curvy and spectacular drive to Milford Sound, stopping en route at various waterfalls for some short hikes. I had been warned by my Airbnb host (and a number of others) that driving to Milford Sound was dangerous. They cited the recent example of two young German tourists who were incinerated after driving on the wrong side of the road and slamming into a Korean tour bus. While I can see that if you’re not paying attention to the road, things like that can happen, the drive was so beautiful and fun that I wouldn’t do it any other way. I was booked on a 4:15pm boat trip through Milford Sound (which is technically a fiord) out to the Tasman Sea and back—another of the many highlights of this trip. Dinner was local fare at Redcliff Cafe in Te Anau, which was so delicious I returned the following night, too. I stayed at an Airbnb in a rural area outside of Te Anau, featuring a very kind host who stocked my room daily with farm fresh eggs. One morning, while driving to Te Anau, I came across a local sheep herder using the road to move his sheep from one enclosure to another. I stopped the car and got out to take photos—it was fascinating watching the border collies at work, nudging the mindless sheep into submission.

Day 11: Milford Track

This was one of my favourite days of the trip, one that I’ve revisited in my thoughts time and time again back in New York. I caught the 10:30am ferry from Te Anau Downs to the start of the Milford Track, one of the most spectacular hiking paths in the country. The entire track runs 53.5km one way to Milford Sound (and must be done over 3 days); I hiked about 13km roundtrip, retracing my steps to take the ferry back in the afternoon. Don’t miss the ferry back, as there isn’t another way to get back to Te Anau Downs! Over several hours during peak season, I barely saw a total of 10 other people in what is one of the nicest hiking trails I’ve been on. The trail is wild and varied, passing through beech forest, the glacier-fed Clinton River, wetlands, and alpine terrain. I sat down at an overlook next to the river to enjoy 15 min of silence, and a small South Island robin came to investigate, coming right up next to me. The boat ride back was beautiful as well, with golden hour colours illuminating Lake Te Anau.

Start of the Milford Track, South Island

Day 12: Omarama gliding & hot tubs

The following morning, after a leisurely breakfast of farm fresh eggs and local cheese in the garden of my Airbnb overlooking rolling farmland hills, I began the drive towards Lake Pukaki. En route, I saw signs for the Sunday farmers market in Cromwell and stopped by, sampling local cheeses, honey, olive oil, and even cotton candy. I was particularly enamoured of the Ardgour olive oil, a rich green colour with strong notes of pepper, and purchased a travel size to take back with me, as well as some goat milk soap from simplenakedsoap for my Mom back home. There was live music, and the restored Gold rush-era historic part of town was lovely to walk around. That afternoon, I was booked at 3pm for a 60 minute glide with Glide Omarama, a both slightly terrifying and spectacular experience. I got into the narrow glider, in front of my instructor Gavin. The glider is attached via a cord to an airplane, which pulls the glider up to an appropriately fear-inducing height, at which point Gavin detached us, and we were under our own power—and that of the wind. For about an hour, we soared above the cliffs of the nearby mountains, with Lake Pukaki glinting in the distance. Upon request, we did some barrel rolls and sharp turns before lightly touching down. Afterwards, I checked out the Clay Cliffs and enjoyed the smoked salmon chowder at Shawty’s Cafe in Twizel, followed by a glass of wine on the terrace of my Airbnb as the sun set over the surrounding farmland. The area around Lake Pukaki is one of the few designated Reserves by the International Dark Sky Association, making for some spectacular stargazing. And while I didn’t make it, I was sorry to have missed the hot tub experience at Hot Tubs Omarama—they have great reviews. Will just have to go back!

Day 13: Hiking near Lake Pukaki

The area around Lake Pukaki and nearby Lake Tekapo is one of New Zealad’s most spectacular and varied, featuring great views of Mt Cook and the surrounding range. After a delicious breakfast feast of freshwater King Salmon sashimi and cold smoked salmon from Mount Cook Alpine Salmon overlooking the otherworldly blue waters of Lake Pukaki, I drove about 40 minutes to the trailhead for the Hooker Valley track (10 km return). I was initially concerned due to the large number of people both in the parking area and on the track, but the track itself along the Hooker River was beautiful, with multiple bouncing suspension bridges, purple bell-shaped mountain flowers, and a glacier lake with small icebergs (!) at the end. Afterwards, I relaxed in the multiple hot springs at Tekapo Springs, splurging to ride New Zealand’s tallest inflatable waterslide and bring out my inner 8 year old. Dinner was at Kohan, a surprisingly good Japanese restaurant overlooking Lake Tekapo. Next door is an outpost of Aotea gifts, where I sampled various types of manuka honey (one of New Zealand’s more expensive—and delicious and healthy—exports) and learned the differences from a very well-informed attendant.

Above, breakfast outside at Mt Cook Alpine Salmon with Lake Pukaki in the background. Below, Hooker Valley Track.

Day 14: Akaroa peninsula penguins

I had originally planned to relax and make my way through a few wineries en route to my Airbnb in Christchurch, but I learned about the Pohatu penguins in Akaroa and could not resist a detour. On a 2-hour nature tour around Flea Bay following a beautiful drive along Route 75, I met rescue penguins and a variety of other farm animals. Pohatu also offers overnight stays and kayaking trips, which I vowed to return for. And Akaroa is a very cute town, ideal for walking and lingering. It was the perfect ending to a full, spectacular and varied trip. One final thing: due to the time change between New Zealand and LA, it’s possible to take a photo at 8am on, say, January 10 in both Christchurch, NZ as well as Manhattan Beach, CA—highly recommended for the fun factor.

What to bring

Hiking gear
Bathing suit
Headlamp
Sunscreen
Sunglasses
Mosquito repellent
A very long playlist with good music for the many hours in the car
Allergy medicine - depending on where you stay, many Airbnbs have dogs, cats or other animals

Where to stay: Airbnb all the way!

Where to eat & drink

Devon on the Wharf, Auckland (North Island)

Shucker Brothers, Auckland (North Island)

Soul Bar + Bistro, Auckland (North Island)

The Merchant of Lake Taupo, Lake Taupo (North Island)

Shed5, Wellington (North Island)

Crab Shack, Wellington (North Island)

Noble Rot wine bar, Wellington (North Island)

Cable Bay Cafe, Cable Bay (South Island)

Moutere Inn, Upper Moutere (South Island)

Matheson Cafe, Lake Matheson (South Island)

Gin and Raspberry bar, Wanaka (South Island)

Chard Farm, near Queenstown (South Island)

Akarua winery, near Queenstown (South Island)

Amisfield, near Queenstown (South Island)

Redcliff Cafe, Te Anau (South Island)

Shawty’s Cafe, Twizel (South Island)

Kohan, Lake Tekapo (South Island)

Road trip: sands, stalagmites and snow in New Mexico

In the land of stones, spices and spirits

New Zealand: North and South Islands in 2 weeks

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