Oman: order and beauty

In Charles Baudelaire’s poem L’invitation au voyage (inspired by his travels as a youth), he paints an image of both calmness and oriental splendor.

Là, tout n'est qu'ordre et beauté,

Luxe, calme et volupté.

Swimming through the turquoise waters of Wadi Shab, Oman

I was reminded of his words on a recent trip to Oman, a stunningly beautiful country filled with some of the most charming locals I’ve met on my travels. Upon landing in Muscat in the evening and heading to the rental car booths (highly recommended as an economical and easy way to get around), everyone along the way made me feel welcome, telling me about the city, its origins and its people. I also found it to be a safe country; as a solo female traveller, I was treated everywhere with kindness and respect. After checking into my hotel room, I sat on my balcony, breathing in the fresh sea breeze, enjoying the lingering sensation of saltiness and heat infused with the sweetness of the night.

The following morning, I drove to the MolaMola Diving Center to embark on a day trip to the Dimaniyat Islands, a nature reserve some 40 miles (70 km) northwest of Muscat. The dive boat was full of travellers from around the world, including some locals, and the vibe was one of lighthearted banter and chatter about off the beaten path adventure destinations. The diving was well worth the boat ride out: turtles, cuttlefish, and schools of fish darted around well preserved coral heads with relatively good visibility and a touch of current. Lunch was served on board the boat, and the rocking of the waves lulled us into a deep satiety as we returned to Muscat. I spent much of the rest of the day working, venturing out to the nearby Royal Opera House to admire the architecture and for an evening stroll along the waterfront, where families, couples, and groups of friends created a lively atmosphere.  

Muscat waterfront, Oman

After a light breakfast, I drove south, arriving roughly 90 minutes later at Wadi Shab for a fun adventure combining hiking and swimming. From the parking area, a short boat ride run by locals for 1 rial per person takes you across the river to the start of a scenic hike to a series of natural pools carved over centuries by the moving water. Despite starting early in the morning with few others along the trail, I found I was baking in the heat of the sun by the time I reached the first pool after about 40 minutes. Stripping down to my bathing suit, I put my belongings in a dry bag and began swimming through a series of 3 pools until I reached a narrow crevasse with a shining turquoise pool of water on the other side. A small waterfall gushes in from yet another small pool just above, reachable by a thick rope over wet rock for those seeking more thrills. Lingering, I enjoyed turning all my senses to the sights and sounds of nature, letting any everyday worries flow away with the sound of the water amplified by the rocks around me, carved over centuries. It was a subtle reminder that this river has flowed long before you or me, and will likely continue long after we cease to exist. 

Hiking through Wadi Shab, Oman

Wadi Tiwi, Oman

The wadis in Oman come in all shapes and sizes; based on a recommendation from a new friend on the dive boat, I ventured further south along a winding mountain road to Wadi Tiwi. From the parking area, a series of steps lead downwards to a set of pools in a rainbow of green-blue hues. Swimming was a respite from the ever-present heat, and scrambling around a few rocks yielded a stunning view into a deep canyon where the river widened before disappearing from view around the bend. I encountered just five other people who expressed surprise that I had driven myself in a rental sedan; most visitors arrive with a local guide in a 4x4. Rest assured, you’ll fare just fine in any vehicle, but do check the road conditions in advance.

Bimmah sinkhole, Oman

En route back to Muscat via villages forgotten in time, I stopped at the Bimmah sinkhole, which was full of visitors in the afternoon. Many were swimming in its crystal clear waters, but this may be a bit of a letdown after you’ve experienced the wadis further south. Instead, I recommend continuing onwards to Mutrah, a port town just east of Muscat, and enjoying a traditional Omani meal at Bait Al Luban. Their rendition of shuwa, a classic Omani celebration dish of marinated meat roasted in an underground firepit for hours, was fantastic, as was the shorbat adass, a lentil soup enhanced with local spices. Afterwards, get lost in the myriad of wares at the Mutrah Souq, or stroll along the Mutrah Corniche to admire the views of the fort and whitewashed buildings set against a backdrop of sharp mountainous peaks. 

Mutrah corniche, Oman

Mutrah souq, Oman

Muscat itself features numerous attractions, ranging from local sweets at Al Hosni to exotic fragrances at the Amouage perfume centre. With just a few days, I lacked the time to visit the Musandam Peninsula, renowned for its diving, or the picturesque villages of the Al Hajar mountains. But trying to experience all these places in one visit would be a mistake; Oman is the type of place that invites you to return, time and time again, with the feeling of always wanting more. 

Là, tout n'est qu'ordre et beauté,

Luxe, calme et volupté.

Infinity pool overlooking the Gulf of Oman

Socotra, Yemen: untouched frontiers

I remember reading about the remote island of Socotra, Yemen, as a young girl. Known as the Galapagos of the Middle East, with nearly 40% of its plants and trees found nowhere else on the planet, Socotra seemed almost unreal. Isolated from the mainland over 6 million years ago, its endemic species resemble something out of a science fiction novel - dragon blood trees (so named for their red sap), bottle trees, and the elusive Socotran chameleon. This year, I decided to make my lifelong dream of visiting the island a reality.

Bottle nose tree, Socotra

Visiting Socotra takes some planning: there is just one flight a week, run as a charter flight via Air Arabia out of Abu Dhabi. You cannot book the flight online; you’ll need to work with a tour operator to arrange it as well as your visa. I went with Piotr (Peter), founder of Pazola Travel, who has arranged multiple trips to the island over the years and seamlessly arranged this one. He is also one of the few operators to prominently feature scuba diving on multiple days of the trip; he is a long time instructor with over 8,000 dives under his belt. Our group of 8 met at the Abu Dhabi airport, having packed all of our scuba diving gear, sleeping bags and headlamps, and lightweight clothes for hiking and adventures in the heat. This is a trip for the adventure-minded: we typically spent the night camping or in relatively basic accommodations, and there are no frills (and very few items available for purchase) once you arrive on Socotra for the week.

Sunset at camp in Dihamri, Socotra

Upon arrival in Hadibo, the largest town on Socotra with a population of roughly 10,000, we were greeted by our guide, Abdularuf, and three drivers with their respective Toyota Land Cruisers, who would be with us for the week. We spent the first night at the Summerland motel, a popular and clean choice in town that even offers some basic breakfast and limited wifi. We headed out for lunch at the most popular restaurant in town, which served grilled fish, chicken, piping hot freshly made local flatbread, and an assortment of freshly squeezed juices (highly recommended). 

Cooking local flatbread in Hadibo

Hadibo at night

Hadibo itself is relatively vibrant, with plenty of locals walking around (women dressed in black in full burqas and men in traditional local colorful dress), mingling with goats and scores of trash (there is no place to discard of trash on the island, and unfortunately most of it ends up on the streets). This is also a place of extreme poverty: most things that end up on the island must be imported, and this is not cheap (or affordable for most of the population living off the land). At the aforementioned restaurant, any food not consumed by paying customers was promptly carried off to an ever-present group of hungry people who didn’t have the means to pay for a meal. At many of the small villages we passed during our time on the island, we encountered groups of children and families subsisting on the bare minimum to survive. Socotra is truly a sobering place that reminds us of just how small and insignificant we all are.

We are the lucky ones, the ones able to sit back in the Land Cruisers and explore the length of this unique and stunningly beautiful place. Our first stop was the Dihamri marine reserve, the longest coral reef on Socotra, where we set up camp for the night and completed a checkout dive with the only local scuba instructor, Walid. The reef is in near pristine condition, a testament to what our planet might be like with sustainable fishing operations. We observed reef sharks, turtles, and thick forests of richly coloured hard and soft coral gardens. I saw no discernible coral bleaching, which I’ve sadly grown used to as the norm at most dive spots around the world. This is a real underwater paradise–and what’s more, equally amazing for divers as well as snorkelers, as many sites have a maximum depth of 30 ft (10m). After our second dive, we hiked among the nearby bottle trees and gazed into the depths of the Arabian Sea as the setting sun turned everything around us a rainbow of red. 

Homhil, Socotra

Arher beach, Socotra

The next morning, we set off further east towards the landscape-dominating sand dunes of Arher. We detoured towards Homhil in the mountains in the interior, from where we hiked with a local guide through dragon’s blood trees and curved canyons shaped by centuries of water culminating in nearby pools overlooking the plateau below us blending into the sea. We trekked down the mountain towards the beach at Arher, where we enjoyed a late afternoon swim with dolphins and a myriad of fish in crystal clear waters. After a quick rinse in the nearby river, we set up camp for the night directly on the beach, falling asleep to the crashing waves. Waking up about an hour before dawn, we hiked up the cool dunes in darkness to enjoy from the top one of the most beautiful sunrises I’ve seen in my travels. 

Sunrise from Arher sand dunes, Socotra

After descending for a light breakfast by our camp, we headed to the easternmost part of Socotra, the fishing village of Irsal, from where we dove a shipwreck covered in decades of reef growth: giant clams, mussels, and bits of hard coral. Afterwards, backtracking eastwards, we completed a second dive (my favourite of the trip) at Rosh. Diving below the surface, we encountered one of the most beautiful and pristine hard coral gardens I’ve ever seen, full of life: a pair of lobsters chasing each other around coral heads, abundant schools of butterflyfish, and a rich microcosm of tiny nudibranch, shrimp, and crabs. 

Colourful fishing boats in the village of Irsal, Socotra

Children swinging from a dragon blood tree, Socotra

A path through the dragon blood trees in Dicksam, Socotra

Dragon blood trees in Dicksam, Socotra

We next ventured into the interior of Socotra, into the depths of Dicksam, reachable via an extremely rocky and long road full of switchbacks. We were rewarded by a sea of dragon’s blood trees stretching in every direction and some of the clearest night skies still largely untouched by human life (and light). We walked through the trees as afternoon turned to dusk turned to night, a showcase of stars complementing the ancient trees around us. The best places I’ve travelled to are the ones that remind you of your fleeting existence on this planet and the immensity and greatness of the world around us; they fill you with hope that despite our destructive tendencies, humans will find a way to live sustainably and coexist with the products of millions of years of evolution. Socotra is one of these places.

The road to Dicksam

Watching the sunset over dragon blood trees, Socotra

The endless night sky in Dicksam, Socotra

Our last two days on Socotra were spent in the far western stretches of the island, miles from other human beings on the beach of Shouab. The decades-old wreck of a large Qatari ship stretches just offshore, offering plentiful sightings of goliath groupers, schools of tang, and numerous sting rays. We spent two dives here; we could have done ten and that wouldn’t have been sufficient. The privilege of being able to dive in such a remote place was not lost on us, and we emerged from the sea feeling changed. 

Pristine Shouab beach, Socotra

If you have even the inkling of a feeling to make your way to Socotra, go: this is a place lost in time, unlike any other on Earth. It doesn’t take long to fall into its rhythm, letting go of the business of the outside world, in favour of a more peaceful, simple existence. This is true paradise for those lucky enough to visit. 

What to pack

Pack lightly, but bring essentials such as medications, a fully charged power bank (minimum 30000 mAh depending on the devices you are bringing), extra memory cards for your camera, etc. You’ll want to travel solely with soft-sided luggage (ideally duffel bags that can be both carried and wheeled). Leave your drone at home; there’s a high chance it will be confiscated by airport authorities in the UAE, where they are illegal.

Most operators will travel with local crew, including a guide, drivers, and chef. The food on our trip exceeded all expectations: a rotating cast of local chicken, freshly caught fish, and the ubiquitous goat, all prepared by our cook in the open air by our camp.

A friendly local on Socotra

If you intend on going with an operator who offers scuba diving, you’ll want to bring all of your own gear, as essentially none is available for rent on the island given there is a sole divemaster. Tanks and weights are of course available, but I recommend bringing an extra mask and ensuring your dive computer has a good working battery. Walid (the local scuba instructor) has a few other pieces of gear for rent, but given the remoteness of the island, the selection is limited and prices are steep. 

Fun fact: There are three things you will see endless amounts of on Socotra: goats, pufferfish, and vultures.

Detwah lagoon, Socotra

St Lucia: crystal waters, cocoa, and craters

Few places have it all, but St Lucia is a serious contender. Staggering deep green mountains for hiking and climbing, rainforest trails filled with coffee and cacao trees, coral reefs teeming with life, and volcanic hot springs paired with a rejuvenating mud bath? Yes, yes, yes, and yes. What’s more, the people are some of the kindest I’ve met anywhere, and delicacies like saltfish and green figs, or freshly caught grilled fish paired with the local hot sauce, will leave you wanting for more.

View of the Pitons flying into St Lucia

Flying into Hewanorra International airport, I was treated to a spectacular view of the green-covered twin peaks of Gros and Petit Piton (large and small, for the non-francophone), and quickly began to settle into island time. We stayed at Sweet Breezes, a simple but spacious rental home a stone’s throw from the more upscale Tet Rouge resort in a less populated area, and at night we marveled for hours at the vast quantity of stars we could see from our roof deck due to little light pollution. A few minutes’ walk took us to a small beach, where at night the waves shone with bioluminescence as they lapped the shoreline. This is a place where time seems to slow, allowing you to reconnect to what’s truly important. 

Sunset, St Lucia

Jalousie beach, St Lucia

The sea here teems with life, and you’ll be treated to schools of bright yellow grunts, squads of hovering squid, and a lone camouflaging octopus or two whether you snorkel or scuba dive. I did a couple of great dives with Chester, who runs Action Adventure Divers out of Soufriere at the base of the Pitons. We sought out invasive lionfish during our dives, which Chester speared and then asked a friend to fry for us next to the dive shop. One of the best snorkeling spots is on the north side of Jalousie beach, which you can reach by boat or by road via the Viceroy’s high-end Sugar Beach resort. We saw moray eels both freeswimming and emerging from hiding spots in the coral, inquisitive Caribbean reef squid traveling in family-size units, and a pair of pillow-sized porcupine fish. All beaches in St Lucia are public, and we enjoyed strolling along the sand, admiring the Pitons towering on either side of us. We followed with local greens, grilled fish, fried chicken, and passionfruit-flavoured drinks at the beachside restaurant, our feet in the sand as the sun set into the sea.

St Lucian sunset

View of Petit Piton whilst hiking Gros Piton

Feeling up for an adventure, the next day we awoke early to hike up Gros Piton. Upon arriving at the trailhead, we were paired with a local guide and asked to pay a $50 USD entry fee, which goes to the local community (note: you cannot go up without a guide and at least 1.5L of water per person, though I’d recommend bringing 2L or more). Reaching the summit requires roughly 2 hours of mostly uphill hiking, with 3 spots spaced roughly 30 minutes apart to stop, rest, and enjoy the views along the way. We were rewarded with a sense of accomplishment and spectacular views of both Petit Piton (a more difficult summit, involving some climbing) and the southern expanses of St Lucia, with the peak of La Soufriere volcano on St Vincent visible in the distance. The way down felt longer, as it often does, but fortunately a small hut selling delicious homemade ice cream and an assortment of cold drinks awaits.

Volcano crater on St Lucia

St Lucia is also one of the few places you can drive into the crater of an active volcano. We were greeted by the strong smell of sulphur and a few friendly local employees, who took us to a lookout point from where we saw an assortment of bubbling hot pools and heard stories about the history and formation of the area. Afterwards, we dipped into the nearby mineral hot springs, slathering ourselves in volcanic mud with revitalising properties that locals and tourists alike swear by. Our skin did feel baby soft for a few hours afterwards, so it’s certainly worth a shot.

Should you be craving a different kind of bath, nearby is the Toraille waterfall, a pretty 50 foot (15 metre) drop into a cold wading pool—stand under it for a nice back massage. Alternatively, nearby is Hotel Chocolat, an eco hotel with a spa featuring exfoliating scrubs and massages with oils made from the cacao beans grown locally on the property. Feeling sufficiently relaxed, we toured the cacao groves, and our patient guide taught us how to make our own chocolate bars from the raw ingredients. Spoiler: it requires patience and a lot of grinding pestle against mortar, and results in some of the best chocolate you’ll ever have. 

Our patient guide at Hotel Chocolat

Anse Mamin beach, St Lucia

Desiring more time in the sea, we headed to the nearby beaches of Anse Chastanet and Anse Mamin. Accessible by boat or car, both feature large expanses of sand lapped by crystal clear waters with dramatic rock-hewn backdrops. The high-end, open air sister resorts of Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet are located here, and we enjoyed the fish ceviche served in a coconut along with delicious burgers on the beach at the relatively quieter Anse Mamin. Whiling away an afternoon alternating between swimming, reading, and sunbathing was enough to forget the outside world, and splurging on a couple of nights at the nearby Caille Blanc villa was definitely the right choice.

A short drive or walk from the beach, Caille Blanc perches dramatically on the hillside, with an infinity pool overlooking perhaps the best view of the Pitons. The view is overshadowed only by the friendly staff, who will ensure your stay is as magical as their island. I spent hours gazing over the expanse of ocean and mountains, and the image of the twin Piton peaks remains etched in my mind like an invitation. It’s a place you’ll want to linger, taken in by its serenity as you reflect on how lucky we are to live in this world.

View of the Pitons from the infinity pool at Caille Blanc, St Lucia

Where to eat, drink, and stay

Jungle grill, Anse Mamin beach

Sweet Breezes rental home, Choiseul, Soufriere

Hotel Chocolat

Caille Blanc Villa

A few notes on logistics

In current times, you’ll need a negative covid PCR test taken within 72 hours of arrival to St Lucia. I recommend doing this early, as you’ll need to upload it to the tourism portal, after which you’ll wait to receive an email with a QR code that you’ll need in order to enter the country. If you stay at more than one hotel in the country during your stay, some may require an additional test. To return to the U.S., you’ll need a negative test taken within 24 hours. As I found pricing for this to be quite high on the island, I brought a travel-approved test with me from the U.S., which I took under a doctor’s supervision via video call from my laptop. 

Having a car is essential to getting around the island (unless you’re willing to splurge on repeated outings from your hotel or rental) and gives you the freedom to explore. Many attractions are concentrated along the western side of the island, and the region around Soufriere is great to use as a base. If you’re looking to explore the whole island, keep in mind that driving distances can be significantly longer than they appear on Google Maps due to the frequent curves and potholes you’ll encounter on the roads; driving from the southern part of the island to the north without stopping will likely take about 3-4 hours. I highly recommend the locally-run Sacred Heart car rental - communication was easy, and everything went smoothly.

New Zealand: the North of the North

If you’ve read my previous post about New Zealand, you’ll know I fell for the country pretty hard when I visited the North and South islands in a whirlwind two weeks. I went back last month for more, this time spending two weeks in the northern parts of the North Island, which seemed fitting for summertime. It is truly one of my favourite countries in the world: nowhere else is there such a perfect combination of diversity of landscape, little crowding, and amazing local food.

I’ve broken the below into three regional sections; feel free to skip ahead to Auckland & Waiheke, Northland or Waikato & Bay of Plenty.

Sunrise at Cathedral Cove

Auckland & Waiheke

After landing in Auckland, I checked into my cozy Airbnb near the waterfront and strolled over to Shucker Brothers for a feast of local oysters and fish & chips. The following morning, after some light bites at the Auckland Fish Market, I took Fullers ferry over to Waiheke island, known for its vineyards and fresh seafood, for a day trip. Just 30 min each way, the ferry makes the island incredibly accessible, and it’s advisable to rent a car to visit the different vineyards. I stopped for a quick breakfast at Solar Eating House with nice views overlooking Oneroa Bay before continuing eastward towards Man O’ War vineyards, as the paved road turned to gravel and the scenery becoming increasingly wider expanses of green dotted with sheep. There’s a calm bay with a thin stretch of pebbly beach here, which in the summertime fills with boats, swimmers, and kayakers. The wines at Man O’ War are some of the best on the island, with crisp, minerally whites and peppery Syrahs. 

The beach by Man O’War vineyards, Waiheke Island

Vineyards on Waiheke Island

More food may be in order prior to trying more wines, and fortunately Poderi Crisci, run by a Neapolitan named Antonio, is not far away. A picturesque garden setting filled with the smell of jasmine and lavender welcomes you to your table, and traditional Italian staples are on offer. Alternatively, head back towards Onetangi Bay for a delicious seafood spread at Three Seven Two, which has a fantastic indoor/outdoor layout and overlooks the wide stretch of beach. The oysters were some of the best I had in New Zealand, and the wine list is superb. 

Bird’s eye view of Waiheke Island

For something a bit different, check out Casita Miro, which feels like stepping into Parc Guell in Barcelona. The wines are decent, but the views make it worth a stop. For better wines, head to Tantalus and the neighbouring Stonyridge, which I followed with a quick stop at the Te Matuku Bay seafood market for another dozen local oysters. Cap off the day at Cable Bay Vineyards, with views of Auckland in the distance. For dinner, back in Auckland, I thoroughly enjoyed the lamb chop at Giraffe together with a friend who flew in to join me for the remainder of the trip.

Northland

Feeling full of oysters and lamb and wine, a rare and happy feeling, the following day we made our way north towards Matapouri, the jumping off point for the Poor Knights Islands, one of New Zealand’s best dive sites. En route, we stopped at the Kaiwaka Cheese shop to sample some local cheeses and other products: the manuka smoked cheddar and jalapeno gouda were particularly tasty. Further north, a quick hike led to the scenic Whangarei Falls, and nearby was the highlight of the day: Abbey Caves. A set of 3 caves reachable from the road via a short walk, these are particularly special because they aren’t commercialised and are filled with glowworms! To the uninitiated, glowworms are not actually worms, but rather larvae of fungus gnats (a much less glamourous term) that produce a bioluminescent blue-green glow. Some of the entrances to the caves are a bit tight, and the caves can be quite wet, so wear appropriate clothing and footwear (ideally water shoes or hiking shoes that can get wet, as well as a headlamp). Turn off your lights once well inside and enjoy the spectacle!

Our Airbnb near Matapouri was clean and well-located to the dive shop the next morning. We went with Yukon dives, and the boat was one of the nicest dive boats I have ever been on, complete with an upper outside area and a lower, fully-enclosed space full of comfortable bean bags and pillows. Beware, however, the water temperatures, which were at just 17C. These are drysuit diving waters, though the dive shop will assure you that everyone is fine in the 6.5mm wetsuits and hoods they supply. I insisted on layering an additional 3mm wetsuit on top of that, and I was still absolutely freezing within about 60 seconds of entering the water. The water was relatively choppy, though underneath the surface, the sway of the large-leafed, bright yellow and green algae was mesmerising. Large schools of fish and stingrays abounded, and multiple swimthroughs surrounded by the yellow algae truly made this a memorable divesite. In the shallows, caverns along the islands make for spectacular backlit window vistas onto the depths. 

Resident emus at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

Homemade Christmas dessert at Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay

One of the most memorable Airbnbs of the trip was Raewyn & Rosco’s farmstay in Waiharara, where I was lucky enough to be over Christmas. Their dog Jess came out to greet me, nearly jumping into my car. They joked that since they didn’t have much family in the area, they had rented Americans to entertain them over the holidays. But they have many animals to make up for it: emus, cows, pigs, and ducks roam about, and the property borders a scenic creek upon which you can canoe. They cooked a fantastic Christmas dinner that we were invited to share in, and their breakfasts were the best of the trip. Raewyn & Rosco’s hospitality made me feel right at home despite being thousands of miles away from my own family. 

The next day, we took an incredibly scenic road trip up to Cape Reinga, the northernmost point of New Zealand. It is where the Tasman and Pacific seas meet in a thunderous mix of greens, blues, and greys, and it’s a place of special significance to the Maori, New Zealand’s indigenous people: it is the point where the spirits of the dead enter the underworld. A stunning hiking path leads from near the lighthouse at the end of the peninsula to the completely wild Te Werahi beach. Dress in layers and wear sunscreen; conditions can change quickly. 

Cape Reinga with a view to Te Werahi beach

Tasman Sea, Cape Reinga

Cape Reinga

A short drive away are the equally stunning Te Paki giant sand dunes. You’d not be remiss to think you could be somewhere in the middle east, and yet all of these incredibly varied landscapes are in just one part of one small country. Bring a board to coast down the dunes, or simply enjoy getting lost in the alien landscape. 

Te Paki sand dunes

Fun in the dunes

Should you be craving a swim after the dryness of the dunes, head to nearby white sand Rarawa beach. If you’ve got a 4x4, you can actually drive onto the beach if you’d like. Kitesurfing is possible here as well if the conditions are right. We also checked out the much windier 90 mile beach (it truly does stretch as far as the eye can see in either direction) on the windward side of the peninsula, where tides can change quickly and more than a few cars have gotten stuck. 

Rarawa beach

Kauri tree, Puketi Forest

Our next stop was another farmstay Airbnb further south in Ruawai. En route, we stopped at the Mangonui fish shop for some fish & chips, followed by the Puketi Forest for a short loop hike through a large grove of the currently endangered kauri trees, a species endemic to New Zealand. These large behemoths are reminiscent of California redwoods, but are currently being killed off by an incurable pathogen that can be spread in a single pinhead of soil (typically due to human activity). Signs and spray canisters at the start of trails instruct you to wash and disinfect the soles of your shoes to help prevent spreading the disease. 

The road from Puketi to Ruawai was one of the curviest and emptiest of the trip, and a true pleasure to drive along. Upon reaching Pete & Sara’s farmstay, we were met by Pete, who promptly took us on a short hike to Tokatoka peak to enjoy the vista over the surrounding plains together with his dalmatian, Bella. A former dairy farmer, Pete’s boundless energy and enthusiasm for hosting visitors from around the world was infectious. He introduced us to the alpacas, sheep and donkeys on his farm and showed us how to feed them, and after a home-cooked dinner, we wheeled out his large telescopic to look at the clear night sky largely free of noise pollution. I woke up at 6am to join him at a neighbouring dairy farm where I learned about the process and even milked a couple of cows. Northland is truly New Zealand at its best. 

Waikato & Bay of Plenty

From the rolling hills of Northland, we headed east to the Coromandel peninsula, known among Kiwis for its spectacular beaches and stunning cliffside walks. The drive there along the Firth of Thames is a stunning one and worth the slight detour from the main highway road. Stripes of aqua, turquoise and deep blue merge into each other, and a stroll through Waitawa Regional Park can be a great place to stretch your legs. 

New Chums beach, reachable via a short hike

Coromandel itself is a cute seaside town and a nice spot for a stroll. I picked up some local cheeses and snacks at The Coromandel Smoking Co, and Umu Cafe serves up tasty breakfasts. We unfortunately didn’t have enough time to head up to Fletcher Bay and the Coromandel Coastal Walkway, but it is supposed to be a spectacular day hike. We did do a short walk along the coastline to reach New Chums Beach, which was perhaps one of the prettiest beaches of the trip (it is frequently voted one of New Zealand’s most beautiful beaches). From there, we stopped off for a daily dose of oysters at Salt Restaurant in Whitianga and enjoyed lazing on Hahei beach as afternoon turned to twilight and the sun disappeared behind us. 

Bench with a view near Cathedral Cove

Cathedral Cove

Tree groves at Cathedral Cove

The following morning, I woke up before sunrise to walk to Cathedral Cove before the crowds. It was well worth it, as there were just a few others there, and the lighting was spectacular for photography. Incredibly crowded and hence skippable, however, was Hot Water Beach. There are a number of other spots where you can enjoy the thermal heat without the crowds (more on that later). Breakfast at Flatwhite in Waihi features a great view over the ocean and delicious food, and we were lucky enough to be in town for the weekly farmer’s market, where we purchased some eggs and avocados for the coming days. 

Also well worth a stop is the Leveret Estate winery, which features award-winning and reasonably priced wines as well as very kind and patient salespeople. From there, we checked into our Airbnb in Tauranga (with a hot tub!), where we were welcomed by the very kind Pete and Karen and nice views over the surrounding area. We headed to Waimarino Adventure Park for an evening kayaking trip to McLaren Falls Park, complete with more glowworms. We set out in small groups of kayakers as the last rays of the day illuminated the lake and its numerous black swans and headed upstream to a few channels where glowworms illuminate the surrounding rocks. It was truly a magical evening. 

Kayaking in McLaren Falls park

Sunset at Mt Maunganui beach

The following morning, I set out early to complete the Tarawera Trail, a 15k one-way hike along Lake Tarawera to Hot Water Beach, which, as the name implies, is a thermally heated beach on the lake where you can dig your own hot water pools or simply swim in heated areas of the lake by the shore. You book a water taxi to take you back from here to where you parked your car. The hike will take you through lakeside bushland and varied tree groves, featuring a number of intermittent climbs. The swim at the end of the hike is a relaxing reward, though be sure to book your water taxi in advance, as it runs only if it’s been booked.  

Tarawera trail

Hot Water beach, Lake Tarawera

The following morning was New Year’s Eve, and in an effort to show off some dewy skin, we booked a mudbath and sulphur bath at the aptly named Hell’s Gate. A walk through the area takes you through various bubbling pools and beautiful colours from the bacteria that survive in this extreme temperatures before you settle into the mudbath. An attendant will explain the best way to apply the mud, and after 20 minutes, you are whisked off to the sulphur pools (bring an old bathing suit, as you will likely never be able to wash out the smell) to allow your skin to further soften. 

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

Afterwards, I hiked through the nearby Waimangu Volcanic Valley, which features numerous spectacularly coloured pools and streams due to the underlying thermal activity in the area. In the evening, we enjoyed the small fireworks show over Lake Taupo and lingered on the beach, parts of which are also thermally heated. It was a fitting end to a spectacular decade.

Kayaking on Lake Taupo

Mine Bay Maori rock carvings, Lake Taupo

I started off the New Year the following morning with a 5k kayak (each way) from Acacia Bay (hire your own kayak or join a tour) to the Maori rock carvings at Mine Bay. Kayaking will take about 75 minutes each way, so it’s not a bad idea to bring along a friend to make it a bit easier on the arms. The rock carvings are quite large and intricate, and the views of snow-capped Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe in the distance over Lake Taupo make the trip even more spectacular. 

Red Crater, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Emerald Lakes, Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Of course, one of the most popular activities in the area is the 20k Tongariro Alpine Crossing hike. Last time I visited New Zealand, strong winds prevented me from doing the hike, but this time the weather was on my side. I booked a one-way shuttle from the Ketetahi car park to the start of the trail with Tongariro Expeditions and found myself starting the hike just after 6am as the golden orb of the sun rose into a hazy morning. The landscape varies from light brush and volcanic rock to something best described as lunar to thick forest, and temperatures vary accordingly; I was grateful for my gloves and windproof jacket at the start of the hike, but I’d shed most of my layers about halfway through. The climax, with the aptly named and spectacularly hued Red Crater coming into view, occurs about halfway through the hike. Soon after, the three bright Emerald lakes steal the show, followed by a steep scramble that leads into the seemingly never-ending descent. 

Mountain biking is also on offer in the area, and we checked out some of the trails that form the Craters of the Moon geothermal area as well as past Huka Falls and up the Waikato River. You can rent bikes from FourB, and take a dip in the Warm Water Lake area of Lake Taupo for a soothing reward afterwards. I very much enjoyed the seafood at the Edgewater Restaurant with views overlooking the sunset on the lake in the evening, and the lamb and scallop risotto at Vine Eatery were one of my favourite meals of the trip. 

Sunset, Lake Taupo

Abseiling into the Lost World cave, Waitomo

On our last day in New Zealand, we did the Lost World tour with Waitomo Adventures, during which you abseil about 100 metres down into a wet cave system and something that truly does look like a long-forgotten world. I was happy to have selected the 4-hour rather than the full day tour: half a day gives a nice highlight of the experience and does not require wearing a wetsuit and getting completely wet. There are glowworms here, too, and the cave features beautiful vistas looking back through the natural window at the entrance. Keep in mind that what goes down into a cave must come up, and there’s a ladder with over 100 rungs that you’ll have to climb at the end to get out. 

Afterwards, we enjoyed cups of locally grown tea and some light snacks at the Zealong Tea Estate en route back to Auckland, where we feasted on cloudy bay clams in a coriander sauce along with fresh oysters at Depot, and lingered over creative cocktail creations at John & May’s. We had a great night’s sleep at our Airbnb in Auckland, which featured amazing views of the city, a hot tub, and yes, a trampoline. The following day, the sky had turned an unearthly yellow hue due to the Australian wildfires. It was a stark reminder that despite being endowed with all the beauty in the world, New Zealand is still affected by human (in)action, and what we do directly affects the world around us.

Auckland Airbnb with a view

Where to eat & drink

Shucker Brothers, Auckland

Auckland Fish Market, Auckland

Giraffe, Auckland

Depot, Auckland

John & May’s, Auckland

Solar Eating House, Waiheke Island

Man O’ War vineyards, Waiheke Island

Poderi Crisci, Waiheke Island

Three Seven Two, Waiheke Island

Casita Miro, Waiheke Island

Tantalus, Waiheke Island

Stonyridge, Waiheke Island

Cable Bay Vineyards, Waiheke Island

Kaiwaka Cheese shop, Kaiwaka, Northland

Mangonui Fish Shop, Mangonui, Northland

The Coromandel Smoking Co, Coromandel, Waikato

Umu Cafe, Coromandel, Waikato

Salt Restaurant, Whitianga, Waikato

Zealong Tea Estate, near Hamilton, Waikato

Edgewater Restaurant, Taupo, Waikato

Vine Eatery, Taupo, Waikato

Flatwhite, Waihi, Bay of Plenty

Leveret Estate winery, Katikati, Bay of Plenty

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

Map of the approximate route driven (roughly 2,800km in total)

Planting new seeds on Niue

The waves gently hugged the shoreline as Fiafia Rex showed me how to replant coral pieces in new spots with biodegradable rubber bands. A founder of Oma Tafua, or Niue’s Whale Research Team, she, along with other islanders, are doing their part to help counteract the effects of global warming with the replanting of coral and trees. The last major cyclone to hit the island in 2004 caused significant destruction, with water levels reaching over the cliffs well above us, washing away houses along the shoreline, including most of the capital, Alofi. 

But let’s back up a bit. Niue is a self-governing state in association with New Zealand, though it’s actually located nearly 3,000 kilometres to the northeast, roughly halfway between Fiji and the Cook Islands. Largely comprised of limestone cliffs, which have created dramatic cave and chasm formations, Niue is the largest raised coral atoll in the world, making for some beautiful scuba diving in the surrounding waters. Migrating whales visit the island during the winter months, from July to October, and while the summer can bring rain showers and the aforementioned cyclones, it’s also a much quieter time to visit. With a resident population of some 1,500, that may not make much of a difference, but I found myself completely alone on the many hiking trails and hidden gems the island has to offer, a refreshing change of pace from city life. Note that the extensive coral means that most of the shore is relatively rocky, and access is tide-dependent: this isn’t a spot for a beach vacation.

Hio beach, one of the only sandy beaches on Niue

The main road on Niue

The only way to reach Niue is by two flights a week from Auckland on Air New Zealand, or by ship should you have the chance. You’ll cross the International Date Line en route, so you can relive the previous day all over again in a new locale. I stayed at the Namukulu cottages, about a 25 minute drive north of Alofi and the airport. Run by Michelle and Ross (along with their young daughter Abby), who purchased the property and moved from New Zealand several years ago, they are a peaceful respite for those who are a bit more independent. I hired a car from them for an additional 40NZD per day, which I would highly recommend, and Michelle was there to greet me at the airport. As I visited during the December holiday period, I also got to meet Michelle’s sons George and Harry, who attend boarding school in New Zealand during the school year. Finally, their dog Ruby was always there to greet me and request ear rubs whenever I returned to the cottages. There’s a pool to cool off in, the vistas over the ocean from the property are fantastic, and my inner child loved jumping on the large trampoline. I also thoroughly enjoyed their custom of having a homemade pizza meal with the family the evening of my arrival.

Talava arches, Niue

A full loop of the island by car will likely only take you a few hours, but the plentiful places to stop mean you could easily spend days exploring the island. Well-marked signs indicate many points of interest as well as the amount of hiking time required. One of my favourites was a 20 minute walk each way to the Talava arches, a set of natural archways once used as a lookout point for impending invaders. A walk through a tropical forest filled with several species of crab (I spotted coconut, known locally as uga, hermit, and purple and beige land crabs) leads to a stunning cave, and a short climb down (there are ropes in place) reveals the stunning arches. Better yet, the only sounds were those of crashing waves and seabirds singing overhead. I felt at peace.

A resident coconut crab

Hiking on Niue

Equally impressive is the freshwater Anapala chasm, which was once used for bathing and drinking. It’s best to come at midday, when the little light that can enter through the top of the cleft illuminates the hues of pale green and blue in the water. You can swim through to wider chambers further along the chasm, and the coolness of the water makes for a refreshing break from the outside heat and humidity. Fossilised coral forests make for a challenging if rewarding walk before or after at the nearby Togo Chasm. 

Perhaps the most spectacular sights on Niue are below the surface. I went diving with Rami of Magical Niue and his partner Jody and encountered a richly hued world teeming with life. We saw large schools of fish, sea snakes, moray eels, stingrays, and reef sharks. Unfortunately, as is increasingly typical these days, the coral did show evidence of algae growth and bleaching. Rami has started collaborating with university researchers internationally to replant and regrow coral in areas where it has died off, and thus far his efforts appear to be working. Nature can be quite resilient if we do our part. 

Avaiki

Numerous spectacular snorkeling spots abound as well. My favourites were Avaiki (go during low tide so that you can access the pools) and the Limu Pools (accessible at any time of day). Avaiki was the landing place of Polynesians who came to settle the islands, and the name comes from a derivative of Hawaiki, their ancestral home. The Limu pools feature a rich array of fish, crabs, and sea snakes, and you can also access the outer reef through a channel in the northernmost pool should you be feeling more adventurous. 

Limu Pools, Niue

Driving around Niue is a cultural adventure in itself. You’ll see numerous graves along the side of the road; Christianity was introduced to the island in the 1800s, and today family members are buried directly on their family land rather than a central cemetery. The Niueans I met along the way were incredibly friendly and relaxed, and it’s local custom to wave to anyone you see as you pass by. One of my favourite local interactions was when the aforementioned Fiafia of Oma Tafua invited me to lunch with her colleagues after our coral replanting session at one of the tastiest restaurants on the island, Falalafa. Over freshly grilled fish and chicken, they recounted the challenges they face as the inhabitants of an island small in size but great in conservational importance due to its pristine natural reserves. If you’re looking for a true getaway, Niue is for you.

Niuean sunset

Where to stay

Note that there are just a few options given the size of the island. I stayed at the family-run Namukulu cottages. There is also a hotel on the island, the Scenic Matavai resort, but I found it to feel impersonal when I visited for dinner, and the food unfortunately left much to be desired.

Where to eat

Falalafa for lunch or dinner (the fish & chips are particularly good)

Crazy Uga for a quick bite or morning coffee (note that they close after lunch)

Violama for light bites and cocktails (they run a happy hour with live music on Thursdays)

Gills Indian restaurant for their $5 lunch special

Packing list

Hiking shoes (the sharp coral makes flip flops a poor choice)

Water shoes

Bathing suit

Snorkel gear

Scuba gear & certification card

Light layers

Rain jacket

One last note: keep in mind that this is a very remote island, and as such, everything is relatively expensive. It’s not uncommon to bring some of your own food and supplies from New Zealand, being mindful of customs regulations. On the day of your arrival, you may purchase alcohol (beer, wine, and spirits) duty-free at the liquor store near the airport, next to the island’s main supermarket, Swanson.